Stunning Sea of Sunflowers, Hot Springs & Camping Trip
Mae Hong Son Province | Cool Season | 636 KM Ride | 3 Days
(16th November 2018) Having recently recovered from Bronchitis, I was beginning to feel the blues at having been sick for so long. I had already missed out on a fantastic GT.Rider Memorial Ride the previous weekend, so the doldrums was hitting hard. Feeling a little more improved I decided to get on my bike and visit the Bua Tong Mexican Sunflowers at Khun Yuam, before the bloom ends.
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Contents
Bua Tong Sunflower Fields Travel Guide (Doi Mae U Kho)
“Guardians of The Galaxy Ride” (Memorial Ride & Stunning Bua…
Day 1. Chiang Mai to Bua Tong
Setting off from my home around 10am, I stopped in for a coffee first at my local coffee place, after which I fueled up and was raring to go. The initial 100km of this route is a little on the tedious side in my opinion, as it is mainly busy straight roads (more fun to take the Mae Wang route). However, once you hit the Doi Inthanon checkpoint things start to improve.
Just before the Doi Inthanon Checkpoint, I noticed a new temple being built. It looks like it is going to be an amazing temple when it is finished!
Hot Coffee
My first stop of the day was at Hot Coffee to eat lunch and enjoy a cool drink.
I confess that I am not a big fan of the food there, but many like it. The atmosphere is lovely though and very relaxing. It was a welcome break.
After lunch I rode directly to Bua Tong.
Funny Moment: Are You Zed?
As I was approaching the Bua Tong main lookout I stopped to switch on my GoPro (which up until then I didn’t bother to use, which is a shame really, because I had a short race with a couple of big bike riders and they were unable to keep up with me on the twisties, haha. Would have been a fun one to have caught on film ;)).
Anyway, as I was pulled over on the side of the road I was approached by a rider and asked if I am Zed CM.
Turns out he follows my social media and blog, and was over from Malaysia exploring northern Thailand. Quite a funny and surreal moment.
What do you think the odds were to be riding to the same place at the same time?!
Doi Mae U’Kho Sunflowers
The sunflowers were in full bloom and a beautiful sight!
I took a walk around, enjoying the amazing sea of yellow.
At the main lookout, I caught up with the Malaysian riders for a proper chat, and I also met a lovely solo lady rider from Phayao.
After enjoying the view for a while, I decided to camp in the area for the night, despite it being still fairly early. I was feeling weak after my recent sickness, and needed to rest up. Initially I planned to camp at Bua Tong, but despite having many places nearby to stay or camp, I found it a bit too busy for me. Instead I headed to Mae Surin Waterfall and national park, hoping I could camp there.
Mae Surin National Park
I was pleased to find Mae Surin deserted apart from a couple of ladies working (and living) in a small restaurant on site. At the entrance I was able to get the Foreigner child rate of 100 baht (instead of 200. Local rate is 40 baht), plus 30 baht to enter on my bike. Camping was free as I had my own tent.
You can also about to thankfully buy some bottles of petrol there..
I ate a simple meal of Som Tam and lots of water to help re-hydrate.
It was absolutely silent in the park except for the sounds of nature. The stars were like jewels in the pitch black.
End of day 1
Day 2. Bua Tong to Pai
I woke up early, but lounged about until the sun warmed the area before emerging, which was around 9:00am.
There is something so nice about being in the cool morning sun. It was hard to get going!
By the time I was washed and packed up and had visited the waterfall, it was around 10am. I decided to head back on myself and revisit the Sunflowers.
Halfway between Mae Surin and Bua Tong (a short 5 km from Mae Surin and Bua Tong), I noticed a wonderful simple coffee shop and decided it was the perfect place to enjoy my morning coffee. Posaho Cafe’.
The cafe turned out to have many kinds of blends of coffee and many ways of making it. I choose Hillkoff beans, french pressed (50 baht).
The coffee was delivered by one of several young hilltribe girls, with a smile.
I enjoyed the coffee and the view for a while, soaking in the atmosphere.
After a while I noticed that it was beginning to heat up a lot, so I got back on my bike and set off for the sunflowers.
Back to the Sunflowers
When I arrived at the sunflowers the whole area was PACKED. The road was lined with trucks and cars and minibuses, and the area filled with people. It was a Saturday morning after all, so I should have expected it. The late bird missed the worm in this case. I decided to ride on through and forget about revisiting.
I got back onto the R1263 and headed to the Khun Yuam junction, with just one stop off to buy some petrol.
As I was riding towards the Khun Yuam junction, I reviewed my route. My initial plan was to go to Mae Sariang, then maybe camp around Ob Luang area. however, I suddenly remembered about the Fish Caves (Thampla) in Mae Hong Son, that I had visited 7 years ago, so had a sudden notion to revisit. So, at Khun Yuam I took a right turn instead of left, and headed north to Mae Hong Son.
Mae Hong Son
At Mae Hong Son I rode to the Salween River Restaurant, but found it closed.
So instead went to the Sunflowers Cafe…where I had another small world moment, as I saw my friend Duncan and Bo from TBB Tours.
They were with a group of men from Adventure Ashram and were six days into an eleven day off-road tour.
TBB’s Bo also kindly gave me a Mae Hong Son Rider Sticker. Nice!
The dining company was great, but unfortunately it meant that a large group of people were all ordering at the same time from a small kitchen, which meant my planned quick stop off for lunch turned into a lengthy affair.
I left Mae Hong son later than hoped and headed to Thampla fish caves.
Thampla Fish Caves
At the fish caves I am happy to report that a Thai Driver’s licence got me the Thai rate of 20 baht instead of 100, with no drama. Was an instant discount upon showing. The fish food cost 20 baht and I enjoyed a short visit around the grounds.
These images from my scooter trip back in 2011 (the park has not changed).
Photo below left is from 2011, when I first visited the park, and one day before my accident occurred. I was a skinny thing it seems, haha. My face has changed a little from then, due to two nose surgeries from trying to correct the deviation (still not fixed) and from scar tissue (including inside of my lips). I still have lost the feeling in the tip of my tongue and later my injuries contributed in partial hearing loss in my right ear. ..and some other things, but blah blah blah… ! Time to move along
I confess that during my visit to the Fish Cave I began to feel very unwell. My energy levels were low from my recent sickness and I wondered if I should stop for the rest of the day/night (it was around 4pm). I made an enquiry about camping in the national park and was informed it would be 30 baht (great value!). However, I just wasn’t in the mood to give up riding yet, so decided to carry on riding as much as I could knowing there were plenty of places to stop off along the route. The great thing about having your own camping gear with you is that you don’t need to worry much about where to stop.
I rode on along the R1095 stopping in at the usual viewpoints.
Kiew Lom Viewpoint
By the time I reached Doi Kiew Lom viewpoint the sun was beginning to set and the temperature was dropping. I had a sudden idea that a Hot Springs would be lovely to visit in the evening, and remembered my friend telling me about a Hot Spring resort outside of Pai. I wondered if i could maybe camp there too, so I rode off, hoping to not end up riding in the dark.
In the end, I did actually end up riding in the dark…but only for a few KM’s.
I reached Pai at around 6:30pm, after riding approx 15kms in the dark. I fuelled up first at the PTT in town, then carried on (in mainly pitch black) for around 8km out of town to the hot springs. I was glad to avoid Pai town. I know many people love Pai, but I personally find it a bit too busy for my tastes these days and miss the quieter Pai of previous years back. I just wasn’t in the mood for a party vibe (which seems to be the vibe these days imo) so a quiet soak in a hot springs sounded heavenly.
Pai back in 2008
Hot Springs Resort
When I reached the resort I found out that I would not be allowed to camp on site, so negotiated a better room rate with the reception (the original price was 1500, but I noticed on Agoda it was 800, so she allowed me to pay the Agoda rate. It was unlikely she would have gotten anyone else staying at that late hour anyway, so she was happy as was I). Still, I had hoped to camp again, but was nice to get a cozy room and a soft bed… and electricity!
Also had some unexpected company…
I unloaded my gear into the room, took a quick shower, bought a bottle of beer and some ice from the restaurant on site, and went straight to the Onsen hot spring. I had the entire hot spring to myself and it felt wonderful!
After a good long soak I went back to my room and chilled out, and fell into a long deep sleep.
– End of Day 2
Day 2. Pai to Chiang Mai
I woke early and went back into the Onsen hot spring to enjoy another soak.
I then cleaned up and took a walk around the grounds, enjoying the early morning misty view.
The grounds were beautiful.
That is also when I noticed some tents across the river, so good to know there are camping areas nearby for future reference. I also saw a very brave couple messing about in the really chilly river.
I ate a buffet breakfast provided by the resort (with a nice view of the river area). The buffet had a good selection of food and was included in the price.
(I had one stupid moment of thinking the whole eggs were already boiled, and began to crack one open on my plate, only to have the uncooked egg white run onto my food. The staff noticed and took the egg away to my embarrassment. All I could do was laugh).
I packed up after breakfast and was on my bike by around 9am. In the resort carpark I spotted an elephant passing, so went up to take a video. I then followed them for a short while to watch the elephant being bathed.
Thoms Elephant Camp
After that I headed to Thom’s elephant camp to feed the elephants.
It costs nothing to enter and just 20 baht for a bunch of bananas.
This camp apparently promotes ethical treatment of the elephants, so I hope this is the case.
After feeding the elephants I rode to the Memorial Bridge and carried on until I reached a rural road junction, which provided me with a nice wiggly detour before connecting up to the R1265 to Wat Chan. I passed by a hot spring geister (where you could by fresh eggs to cook) and passed a couple of boys who had been on a refreshing river swim.
It was now around 12 midday by then and I was heating up fast. So I figured the boys had the right idea and I would look for a good place to have a swim myself whilst riding along.
River Swim
Spotted a great little area to have a swim HERE, so parked up my bike and got into the river.
It felt wonderful!
I cleaned up and ate some snacks (pilfered from the breakfast buffet earlier) and enjoyed sitting in the quiet area with nature for a while.
Back on the bike it was a quick ride to Watchan Coffee.
Wat Chan Coffee
At Wat Chan Coffee I enjoyed an ice coffee for 40 baht and the company of some tiny puppies.
I continued along the 1265 only stopping to fill up at a small town garage, and to enjoy a couple of viewpoints.
This road used to be partial dirt, which I rode back in 2016 (trip report HERE), but is now 100% tarmac (my previous ride report HERE).
When I reached Samoeng it was around 4pm and there was a little bit of rain coming down, which was rather refreshing.
Samoeng & the Forest Lookout
At the Samoeng Forest Lookout and bought some delicious bamboo sticky rice from a local Hilltribe vendor.
A little hilltribe boy at the Samoeng lookout.
Mum seemed a little harsh, but he might have been a pain in the butt all day..who knows!
At the lookout, I also bumped into a local foreigner who mentioned that he knows my blog etc, so that was a surprise for me (and a little awkward, for although I enjoy writing about my trips I am very introverted).
After a chat I rode directly home…but, although tired, I was not in the mood to rest. As this day was the anniversary day of my accident I wasn’t in the mood to sit and ponder. Instead I cleaned up and went for dinner and drinks with my friend, which turned out to be a great evening.
Little Miss Fuzzy Pants wasn’t so pleased that I went back out though, and I got a scolding. Apparently she missed me being away (although she was looked after by friends).
Now, despite being almost fully recovered from my illness, I feel like I’ve been hit by a brick! Zero regrets though and was a fab trip.
Looking forward to more with the great riding season now in full swing.
– End of Ride
I hope you enjoyed this Bua Tong trip report.
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