The Back Route to Pai
Mae Hong Son Province | Cool Season | 324 KM Loop | 2 Days
The back route to Pai on the R1349 (then a return ride back on the famous R1095 to create a ride loop) to see how Pai looks now in November 2021 with Covid restrictions lessening. This ride includes classic and less common places of interest, including a stunning mountain sunrise panoramic viewpoint.
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Contents
Pai Travel Guide: What to Do, Where to Stay &…
The Pai Loop
Day 1. The R1349 Back Route
I began this ride in the early morning to beat the heat and humidity of Thailand’s rainy season. With only 190 kilometres to cover, I took my time to enjoy the wonderful misty and cloudy views and grab a photo and video here and there.
Samoeng Forest Viewpoint
The Samoeng Forest viewpoint was filled with low clouds, and the whole ride to Samoeng Village was misty and glorious. At one point, I was also treated to a stunning rainbow.
I stopped to take some video footage of the viewpoint, which was the starting point for my video on “The Back Route to Pai”
The Unfinished Route in 2016
Route Comparison Between 2016 and 2020
Typical Road Hazards
I continued along the back route to Pai and sure enough, as I neared Pai, a typical Northern Thailand road encounter occurred, which is why it is always a good idea to cut your speed and expect the unexpected.
Covid 19 Sign
there were a couple of reminders of Covid19. I wasn’t quite sure yet how Pai town would look either. If it would be dead like before, or a bit more alive.
Just a few kilometres further, before riding into Pai, I stopped at Taradon Hot Springs to cook some eggs for my breakfast. This was my first meal in over 48 hours (intermittent fasting), so I was pretty hungry and ready to eat. There are not so many food option stops on the back route to Pai, so these fresh eggs cooked in a hot spring are a nice stop if you find yourself hungry.
Pai Taradon Hot Spring
With the back route to Pai complete, the next stop was the hippy town of Pai
Pai Town
I arrived in Pai and I checked in at the Heart of Pai resort with its iconic upside-down house at the entranceway. This is a fab little resort within walking distance of the main hub. Clean and at 400 baht a great price (no breakfast). The only negative is that it does not have undercover parking.
Cake O’Go Cafe
Lucky for me my friend David was in town (David Unkovich aka The Golden Triangle Rider from GT-Rider.com), as he was in the area to set up for the GT.Rider Memorial Ride in Mae Hong Son (an annual ride that honours fallen riders. More info about this fantastic ride event on the GT-Rider.com forum and also my own trip report from a 2019 ride).
Meet Up with David Unkovich (GT.Rider)
After a chat and a catch-up about events and life in general we took a slow ride around the walking street zone of Pai to record the current situation. *Note* – our helmets were only off during this slow ride around. Normally Pai is full of life from visitors, and although it was still quiet, there was a positive difference from how it looked only weeks before. Several shops were opening and there were tourists dotted here and there.
After a ride around I got geared up and headed to Purple Rain Homestay, to pay a visit on owner Jean-Baptiste. A cool traditional teak home filled with Jean-Baptiste’s interesting objet d’art.
Purple Rain Homestay
After the visit, we headed back into town to do our own thing, with the plan of meeting up later for dinner.
As evening rolled around, I was pleased to see that Pai had some signs of nightlife. Baby steps still, but restrictions lifting and a chill buzz in the air. I headed back to my room fairly early though, as I had plans for the morning before sunrise.
I recorded a quick video of my room at Heart of Pai and then drifted off to sleep.
Heart of Pai Resort
End of Day 1
Day 2. Chinese Village & R1095
I’m not much of a morning person but sometimes the quest for a beautiful view requires effort, so I was up before sunrise and on my bike (riding in a thunderstorm), heading to a Chinese village 6 kilometres outside of Pai to catch a stunning view.
Yun Lai Viewpoint
The video below captures the moment best!
After enjoying the view for some time I headed back into town to pack up and check out of the resort and then meet David for breakfast before we headed off our separate ways.
Breakfast with David
(Great breakfast, but I’m not so sure about the “Lady Clean Juice” listed in the menu…..)
The ride back to Chiang Mai on the super twisty R1095 route was an absolute dream. I had my camera running, but unfortunately, my SD card failed on me. No matter though, I still managed to get some nice images and a few clips. I stopped in at the Pai Canyon first.
Pai Canyon
Pai Memorial Bridge
Next was a quick stop at the Pai Memorial Bridge. (Details in the main video, including some history about this iconic WWII bridge built by local people (enforced by the Japanese soldiers who needed a direct route to Myanmar, which was at that time under British rule).
A previous video of the Memorial Bridge, when I was on a Big Bike Tours Recce Ride.
The R1095
Next, it was a fab ride on the glorious R1095! Just check out that road!!
The main Pai route between Chiang Mai and Pai, famous for its 762 curves.
Around halfway home I stopped in at Coffee We, a fun and quirky witch-themed cafe on the R1095.
Coffee We Witch Cafe
An interesting coffee shop on the R1095, with a Halloween theme.
…Back in October 2019, this cafe had a giant broomstick which sadly got destroyed one Rainy Season. It was a lot of fun to play around on!
Arrived Chiang Mai
..and that was it, pretty much. I took the back way home (but with one detour due to a bridge collapse) and was home by the late afternoon. Was a great ride with a fair bit crammed into two days. Just perfect!
– End of trip
I hope you enjoyed this Back Route to Pai trip report.
Leave a comment!
Often ride in northern Thailand. Buzz me if you are interested in meeting along the way ..
Hi Kevin. I am not currently riding (long story) but will hopefully kick off new rides in the near-ish future. I tend to ride solo but maybe we will bump into each other if you ride here. Always nice to meet fellow riders!