Mae Hong Son Loop – The Scenic Route (Accident Retrace)
Mae Hong Son Province | Cool Season | 500 KM Loop | 3 Days
A trip in which i retrace the route of my accident I had four year ago.
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Contents
Thailand Iconic Roads in the North
Big Bike Tours Recce Ride 2
5 Days 7 Provinces Loop
Border Ride. N.West to N.East – Northern Thailand.
Day 1. Chiang Mai to Soppong
The ride out. I set off early to make good time, taking the R1095 to Pai. The R1095 is a well-loved moto route, both for scooters and bigger bikes. If you love your twisties, this road is for you!
At the time of this trip however, the road was still undergoing reconstruction. So, unfortunately it was a far more cautious and slower beginning to the trip than I have enjoyed in the past.
Usually I will stay in Pai for a night and chill out, but this time I just stopped off for lunch and short relax then continued on towards Mae Hong Son instead. I had been told that Soppong River Inn, on the outskirts of Mae Hong Son, is a lovely place to stay, so I headed there.
Sappong River Inn
I arranged to stay in a bungalow by the river, which had a nice peaceful feel to it. Until, that is, a large group of riders checked into the bungalow next to me. The noise was really quite bad and a lot of people were getting drunk and rowdy.
Eventually, I had to ask the owner if I could be moved. Thankfully, she was understanding and offered another room. However, what happened instead (which was really very nice of them), was that the group of riders who were told about the noise disturbance, decided to move to a different bungalow instead! I did feel a little guilty, but at the same time I cherished the peace and quiet and I was able to get a good nights sleep.
The bungalows at River Inn are situated close to each other, so noise reverberates, sadly. So, the venue relies upon having quiet neighbours. It was a very scenic place though and would certainly stay again.
End of day 1
Day 2. Sappong to Remote Village in Mae Chaem
In the morning I allowed myself a long lie in before check-out then set off for Mae Hong Son for lunch. Had a quick look around MHS and grabbed a bite to eat at Salween River Restaurant. Enjoyed the food and the prices, and the owner was lovely.
I ended up taking far longer in the restaurant than I should of and realised I wasn’t making good time if i wanted to get to Mae Chaem. There were dark clouds looming also, and it seemed a spot of rain was heading my way. I absolutely didn’t want to stay in Khun Yuam, that’s for sure, as too many bad memories from years before (I’m referring to my accident, which is what this trip was actually all about..). So I headed off for the R1263, only stopping in Khun Yuam to fill up.
As I mentioned previously, this trip was a cathartic one for me, because it was all about retracing my steps when I had a serious accident 4 years previously on the same day. I recall nothing of the route due to the concussion I sustained and I wondered if riding along the same route would bring back any memories. But nothing was coming back to me.
The R1263
Interestingly, I found the road fun to ride on. It had now been completely resurfaced, making it an easy ride. About half an hour into the ride a small thunderstorm hit and it was really refreshing. It didn’t last long and at the end I was rewarded by a beautiful rainbow (a double rainbow in fact!). I felt good. I felt happy. I was finally going to finish the trip I never finished those years ago.
I was losing myself in enjoying the ride and had to keep reminding myself to keep a look out for anything that could trigger my lost memories. Then suddenly, a weird thing happened…
Anyway after I recovered myself I headed on towards Mae Chaem, happy that the past was now behind me.
The waterfall itself isn’t large, but it looks very pretty with its multiple tiers. Additionally what makes the waterfall special is the mineral deposits on the rock, which means you can easily walk up the waterfall without slipping.
Rural Accommodation – Mae Chaem
I found a small town with some ratty accommodation owned by a sweet old couple, and rested up for the night after eating at a local cheap eatery. The stars were so bright due to no streetlights. I had an amazing night of sleep.
– End of day 2
Day 3. Mae Chaem to Chiang Mai
In the morning, when I headed out for the town of Mae Chaem, it turned out that I was just 15 mins away! But no regrets, I enjoyed the quiet cheap place and the bright stars.
I headed into Mae Chaem, fueled up and then headed towards Doi Inthanon. This route has really great curves and I enjoyed the ride. At the Doi Inthanon Checkpoint, surprisingly, I spotted a monkey!
Doi Inthanon Checkpoint Monkey!
Apparently there are some monkeys living around there.
Here is a video I got of it (he sprayed on that lady’s red car. Cheeky little guy!)
I actually (embarrassingly) don’t quite recall what i did after that. I think I was just on a riding high. I took the Mae Wang route home to Chiang Mai.
Arrived Chiang Mai
It was just such a significant trip for me. I do remember arriving home a bit later and thinking “I wish I was still out riding!”
I am proud of myself!
– End of Ride
I hope you enjoyed this Mae Hong Son trip report.
Leave a comment!
Hi, very good post! One question, when you did it? To know if the roads maybe are the same or finished work. I am about to do it
Hi Caro.
This post is from 2 year ago, but I have done the loop several times since then, and recently.
The roads are good.
Maybe some random pot holes and gravel areas (such as the Mae Chaem > Khun Yuam road).
If you want to avoid that, you can go Khun Yuam to Mae Sariang instead.
Not sure if you have done the loop before, but if not, I also have a full guide here: http://motogirlthailand.commae-hong-son-loop/
Or, welcome to message me / comment, if you need any other info.
Can message me direct on my FB page: https://www.facebook.com/motogirlthailand/
Have a great trip! 🙂