Ride to Angkor Wat – Chiang Mai to Siem Reap Loop
Thailand & Cambodia | Hot Season | 2800 KM Ride | 9 Days
March 2019. Khmer Temple Trail Ride. Well this is going to be a hard one to write about for sure, as so much happened in nine days, but will try. I also have a separate border crossing guide HERE
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Contents
Phetchabun: 5 Must-Sees in Magical Phetchabun
Glorious Phetchabun Ride
Chasing Old Memories
The last time I visited Siem Reap and the Angkor Wat complex was in 2007. It had been on my wish list for some time to revisit the complex, and in recent years it was on my bucket list to do it on my bike. Ever since I was around seven years old I was fascinated by the ancient Khmer temple ruins after I watched a documentary on it. I said to myself at the time that I must visit there one day, so I smile when I think back to that little girl who looked at the tv documentary in wonder, only to have now visited it in a way I could never even of conceived of at the time!
Day 1. Chiang Mai to Khao Koh, Via Sukhothai (500 KM)
The ride out. Knowing that I had a lot of ground to cover, I set off early. So by approximately 5:30am I was on my bike and off. This was an additionally good idea because it was the hottest time of the year, with temperatures reaching as much as 40 degrees Celsius. So hitting the roads in the early hours made sense. It was also the test run of my new pannier brackets I designed (and cheap soft panniers), so was keeping my fingers cross that all would work out ok with them.
The initial ride was in the dark, but as the first part of the ride is main highway, I wasn’t missing out on much. By the time the sun was rising, I was already on the nicer B roads.
Klang Dong Area
Nice mountain in Klang Dong area. Smog mask on!The route was nice, but smoky. Sadly at this time the forests are set on fire, creating toxic pollution and hazy air (read more about why this happens here: Burning Season). I kept going until I reached Sukhothai.
Sukhothai Historical Park
I reached Sukhothai Historical Park by just 10:30 am, but it was already heating up.
Sukhothai (meaning ‘dawn of happiness’) Historical Park is the site of the ancient Sukhothai Kingdom, which in the 13th and 14th centuries was under the domination of the Khmer Empire. A good starting point for my Cambodian trip.
At the park, I spotted a lady selling cool drinks from her motorcycle cart. I bought water and she kindly gave me a bag of ice, so that I could soak my riding gear with cool ice water.
After a nice ride around I spotted a cafe and stopped in for a cool iced cappuccino. In the cafe I was surprised at how dusty and dirty my boots already were, when I had only just begun my trip.
When my coffee break was over, I headed to Khao Koh.
The R12 to Khao Kho
The R12 to Khao Koh is well known as one of the best racing style roads in Thailand. I am not much of a racer on my 250cc, but the speed was consistent.
However, suddenly a flash rain storm hit! Wow, it was heavy..and I got a nice big gobfull of dirty rain water, and it soaked me through..lol. At least it helped wash away the smog!
Anyway, I still made good time and arrived in Khao Koh at around late lunchtime. So plenty of time to rest up.
Arrived Khao Kho
I stayed in my favorite resort in this area (Phu Fa Sai Resort) and in the exact same room as I always stay in. The normal price is 2000 baht (even in low season), but she discounted to 1500 for me.
My plan was to ride the short distance to Wat Prasornkeaw (have a great trip report on this stunning temple HERE), to see the sunset at the temple, but to be honest, when I got to my room and had food in my stomach, all I wanted to do was sit quietly and watch the sun go down from my balcony. It was like my feet had been replaced by blocks of lead. It had been a long day riding and I was too relaxed and too peaceful to leave. So, the temple at sunset will be for another time instead.
Plus, ended up that I had a companion for a while anyway…
End of day 1
Day 2. Khao Koh to PhiMai (400 KM)
Wooo another big riding day in heat. Was on the bike early again (around 6am) and headed to the fantastic Wind Turbine Farm 20 kms away.
Khao Kho Wind Turbines
When I arrived at the turbines they were not turning and no one was there. I decided I may as well ride along the base of the turbines to see them up close. Little did I know that this isn’t actually allowed (which makes sense because it would probably be quite dangerous if they were suddenly switched on). About half way around the circuit a man on a Honda Wave told me “NO! Go back!!”. Ooops! Still, was a fun moment while it lasted.
After the wind turbines I rode along quieter twisty routes, avoiding any main roads as much as possible.
Later on, whilst riding in the Phetchabun mountain area (location HERE) I came across these cheeky monkeys. Such a cute family. I didn’t get too close though as I know monkeys can bite. Felt more confident being close due to having gear on..haha!
Monkeys on the Road
I feel a bit bad about something though. It was only after reading up later that I realise I shouldn’t feed them. ..and in truth I shouldn’t have fed them junk either. It was such a surprise to me at the time and in my naivety I was lost in the moment. Now I know better. All I can do is learn from these things really.
You can’t see clearly in the video here, but all the drivers are smiling and laughing as they pass.
Aggressive daddy… 🙁
Well, after that bit of excitement it was time to look out for some place to have a coffee. I love morning ice coffee on hot days! Found this cute little coffee shop on the R225 in Phetchabun.
Coffee Stop in Phetchabun
This cafe was a welcome relief. I spotted the little hut as I was riding past and did a U-turn to go to it. The coffee was great and it recharged my batteries.
Feeling refreshed I set off again and en-route stopped to look at this HUGE building.
Chalermkarnchana Petchabun University
Chalermkarnchana Petchabun University / มหาวิทยาลัยเฉลิมกาญจนา เพชรบูร building was huge and looming. Like something straight out of a movie set!
Throughout the whole of this ride there was a lot of burning taking place, which I expected. From the distance I saw a large area of smoke, so went to take a look at where it was coming from. I wish I had taken a video from the distance to show how large an area this was.
I watched for a while then continued on.
Wat Khao Ban Hoei Chumphon Simaram
Whilst riding along, this huge entranceway stopped me in my tracks. Just look at the size of my bike in comparison! It is still a work in progress.
When I rode inside to take a look it is not yet a proper finished temple project, but looks like it is going to be a beauty! Wat Khao Bang Hoei Chumphon Simaram. Location HERE. Check out the google map images!
Fab looking place! This is going to be a “must see” temple in future for sure.
Riding along long stretches of open road was not much fun, so I decided to break it up a bit when I noticed a sign for a lake area. I figured it might be worth a look-see.
I ended up on a gravely dirt road, in the full sun, that was just a sea of burnt ground. It went on seemingly forever. I started to wonder if I would regret the decision, especially if the view wasn’t worth it in the end.
Thankfully my perseverance paid off and I ended up in this stunning lake filled with lotus flowers. Location HERE.
Lotus Lake
Whilst I was at the lake, I met a lovely family who offered me (MANY) lotus plants full of lotus seeds. I didn’t even know you could eat them! They were surprisingly delicious.
This little guy came to visit me whilst I was sitting in the shade eating the lotus seeds. What a face eh! He had a collar on and was nice and healthy. He was just very good at putting on a “poor me” face. I had nothing he could eat, so he just got some next scratches instead, which he seemed content with.
I am always humbled by the generosity of Thai people, especially those with so little to offer. A little later on I rode past their home on the side of the dirt road. Which was just a tin shack and some tented area for shade. They even asked me if I needed water. So kind.
After a short rest and cool down I got back on the bike for the last 100kms to Phimai. I checked into Phimai Paradise Hotel and felt very embarrassed because I knew for sure I smelled like wet dog. Nothing to do with the dog in the previous picture and all to do with sweaty me! It was a VERY hot day with many km’s in full heat on straight roads. It was a killer!
Phimai
After cleaning up (and washing my gear!) in my hotel room, I left my room smelling fresh as a daisy and walked around the corner to Phimai historical park, and how beautiful it was! Handy tip for washing gear..lol..
Phimai Historical Park
Phimai (late 11th and 12th century), marks one end of the ancient Khmer Highway from Angkor and is considered to be the blueprint for Angkor Wat.
An important piece of history and an amazing building.
One interesting point about Phimai is that although the Khmer were Hindu, Phimai is a Buddhist temple.
After visiting the park, I was in the mood for some good food, so went searching for a place to eat.
Ida Eatery & Drinks
Lucky for me that whilst walking around the area, I spotted this motorcycle-themed eatery. Ida Eatery & Drinks.
had great food, I am glad to say. I was so surprised to find a motorcycle bar!
Once I was finished eating, I took a night walk before heading to bed. Met a little friend on my walk also. I have to say I really liked this town!
– End of day 2
Day 3. Phimai to Siem Reap (400 KM)
This day was lots of horrible straight road riding to Osmach border (and to Siem Reap). There were no interesting alternative routes I could see, so decided to just bite the bullet and right straight to the border on the fastest route available. It was tough going.
Thailand/Cambodia Border
At the border it was all ok, just a bit of walking back and forth to get the documents sorted out. All good though and in a hop skip and jump I was in the Cambodian side, where I had my documents checked and I paid for a tourist visa (charged 35usd. Apparently should really be 30 usd, but its a common unofficial addition.. *cough*).
..and hah! Triumphantly I was over the border and into Cambodia. .. and now to get to Sieam Reap. (..and I had no idea about how the traffic would be..or how tough going the route would be, in terms of relentless straight and unsheltered roads).
On top of the heat and straight roads is the fact that Cambodians ride super slow! In Thailand you can at least pick up the pace on the roads, but with the Cambodian style being slow and well frankly quite crazy lol (riding directly across without even looking and at super slow pace), you just cant go fast.
I think they are not used to anyone riding or driving fast. They see a bike and assume its going slow. So I had to drop the pace down. Last thing I needed was to have or cause an accident in Cambodia (plus the Osmach border did not offer compulsory vehicle insurance..so I was winging it!)
Dumb Moment
Fuel Confusion
At one point I needed to stop for fuel, and was worried about this part as I wasn’t sure of the prices of anything and in these outer areas English may not be spoken.
When I found a garage I had trouble being understood. I wanted $5 of petrol put in my bike. I wasn’t even sure how many liters it would get me. The owner of the garage had to get a younger man from the factory next door to help out as he couldn’t understand me. This guy spoke English and so it got sorted out. Then they both had a friendly chat to me (translated back and forth) because they were curious about me and the bike.
I was lucky too, as it turned out that $5 was exactly right price to fill up my bike! Really! No scam. $5 = full bike! Ok. On to Siem Reap!
Arrived Siem Reap
By midday I reached Siem Reap city and looked for a café in order to freshen up, have a cool drink, and use the WIFI to search for accommodation. I found a nice cool coffee shop (Noir Coffee), which was right next to a petrol garage (bonus!) and the security guard outside kindly put large pieces of carboard over my bike to shade it from direct sun.
I had previously read that there are three main areas for accommodation in Siem Reap, and to pick the area that best suits your ‘vibe’. The resorts surround Angkor Wat were generally away from everyday life and on the pricey side. The areas around Pub Street were for those who wanted more of the party vibe of the city. Then the area east of the river was a quieter mid-price range zone.
The café was already in the zone I wanted (east of the river) and so I found a nice place not far: Sizen Retreat.
Sizen Retreat
When I arrived at Sizen Retreat Resort, I was told the price was 20 usd, but if no breakfast then I could have it for 18 usd (this price changed later on, but more on that later). I was happy with the room and the accommodation had a pool and off-street parking. I cleaned up, had a swim, ordered some room service food and took rest.
In the late afternoon I went to sort out a data sim card with a nearby mobile phone shop and $6 got me a sim plus enough internet to last my trip. After which, I went back to my room to rest for a while.
Bike Drama
In the early evening I went to take off my soft panniers and check over my bike, which is when I had a slight panic moment as I realized my engine oil was seriously low. I had never seen it go down so much so quickly before, but the many kilometers in searing heat had obviously taken its toll.
For all my preparations, which included tools, levers, innertubes etc, I had forgotten to take surplus oil. DOH! So a bit of a panic to find out which would be a good (and affordable) garage to go to, to either buy more oil or better, get an oil change done. Thankfully I got a good recommendation..so I was able to settle down and rest.
– End of day 3
Day 4. Siem Reap & Angkor at Sunset
In the early morning I took a meander ride around the city streets. At 7-7:30am it was already bustling.
Spotting a nice coffee shop I stopped in for a cool ice cappunccino.
Inthanin Coffee
I was particularly drawn to this coffee shop so stopped in. Quite funny because it turns out that Inthanin is actually a Thai chain of coffee shops, but I didn’t realise until later on.
After coffee and a rest I made my way to Promoto Garage.
Promoto Garage
When I arrived at Promoto Garage, I was amazed at how many interesting bikes were there.
They also had premium products and motorcycle gear.
When I met the owner and staff. were were really hospitable and sorted out an oil change for me at a great price.
As for all the bikes, I was told that they were all going out on a Champagne Sunset Tour that evening, that Paul from Promoto runs. The tours sound fabulous! Info here: Sidetracks
I was even taken on a fun classic bike sidecar ride to boot! How lucky am I!
Relieved that my bike was good to go I headed back to my hotel to cool down because it was heating up fast. I took a siesta by the pool with the plan to head out to the Angkor Wat complex for sunset. I had also read that you could buy your ticket for the complex the day before (at around 5pm), so decided that would be the best plan.
However, when looking at google maps (before setting out to buy my ticket and get the temple for sunset) I noticed an interesting place close to my resort named ‘Miniature Replicas of Angkor’s Temples‘. I figured a quick stop there would be a good idea before heading to the ticket office.
Miniature Replicas of Angkor’s Temples
I was so glad that I spotted this place, because it turned out to be a wonderful place with a fascinating man, who had an incredible history.
When I entered the small, humble, museum home, my jaw dropped!
Stood before me was a stunning detailed miniature of Angkor Wat!
…here is a short clip of a longer video that I need to clean up one day.
This man is one of the few surviving old masters from Khmer Rouge regime. He is now 82. Words really cannot express how amazing and talented this man is. He had to hide from the Khmer Rouge because architected were put to death. He lost many colleagues during this period. It is hard to imagine what he must have endured during that time as a young man. I felt very humbled.
During his lifetime, he has received many accolades for his work. Understandably.
He charges a mere $1.50 to enter (and I recommend paying more!). So glad that I found him.
A humble man with an amazing story which was so interesting that I missed the time for buying my Angkor Wat ticket in advance for tomorrow before the office closed… but thankfully the site is free after 5:30pm..which I didn’t know until i got there ! Lucky!
I thanked him and left his wonderful exhibit, and got back on my bike to head to the Angkor Complex. (I really struggled to find it to be honest. My phone sim was not working well and I had to keep stopping to ask directions before I finally saw some clear signage). I was not able to buy a ticket for the next day, but I did get in for free because after 5pm, Angkor Wat Complex is free to enter.
The Back Gates to Angkor
Being on my own bike gave me the opportunity to ride around some of the non-typical areas of the temple complex. It felt amazing to be along and going through quieter sections of the zone.
I enjoyed riding around the complex as the sun was setting. It felt fantastic to be here and the whole site gave me goosebumps.
After visiting the temple, I rode back to my hotel while the sun came down and went to bed early, ready for a very early morning rise.
– End of day 4
Day 5. Angkor Wat & Siem Reap at Night
I awoke MUCH earlier than my alarm was set, because adrenaline and excitement took over. So it was a frustrating experience to be wide awake at 2am, when I didn’t want to wake up until 4.45am. I sat about unable to rest. Finally 4:45am came around and I started to get ready to head out to the complex.
At 5am I was on my bike and heading to the ticket office. There were a ton of tuk-tuks and mini buses already on the way. I got to the office, got my ticket, and headed into Angkor.
I decided to bypass the popular sunrise at Angkor Wat (as I had watched this beautiful sight back in late 2007). Instead I headed on a small dirt road to Bayon Temple/Angkor Thom.
Bayon Temple / Angkor Thom
As I rode through the dark back route to the Bayon Temple it felt interesting and eerie, imagining the people and the lives that once lived and walked there.
The darkness seemed to go on forever, then suddenly, the silhouette of Bayon Temple came into view and the goosebumps returned.
There was no one in this zone. Just me. The barrier to the temple was pulled back, despite it saying it is not open until 7:30am. So, I figured I would wing it and enter.
I was exploring a little when a temple guard approached me. He startled me as he was so quiet, creepily quiet. He told me the temple is not open until 7:30am, but if I paid him some money I could stay. I said no, its ok. I wasn’t really bothered about staying as I wanted to ride around anyway. The sky was already bright and there wasn’t much in the way of a sunbeam sunrise, so he didn’t get his pockets lined that day.
I got back on my bike, rode around for a while, then headed for Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat
As expected Angkor Wat was bustling. I said hello to a grumpy monkey and observed five ladies doing yoga poses at the steps of Angkor Wat temple.
Angkor Wat was as beautiful as I remembered, but what I really was excited to visit, was Ta Prom. During my earlier ride around I noticed it was not opened yet, which is why I made a quick visit to Angkor. But now I was really itching to see it.
I got back on my bike and rode to Ta Prom.
Ride Around the Complex
Riding around the complex on my own bike felt so great. (… and yes, for the complex I left my helmet off. It was hot, there was no traffic, and the riding was slow. I was more likely to come off my bike from heat exhaustion than riding gearless).
I got to Ta Prohm (aka the Tomb Raider temple) just before the gates opened (at 7:30am).
Ta Prom
At Ta Prom I was in Seventh Heaven. The temple is absolutely stunning.
I was also able to get the iconic shot I was hoping for.
Thankfully there were some tour groups around so I was able to get a random tour guide to take a photo and video for me. This particular tour group had some Brits and even fellow Scots, so they had a giggle at my antics, which was nice, because I felt a little self-conscious.
My desire for an iconic shot overread any shyness. One of the men in the group nicknamed me “adventure girl”, which made me laugh. Turns out that they had seen me arrive on my bike. Felt bigger than my own boots that day to be honest.
Moving past the self-indulgent photos, the temple itself is just stunning. Well, as are they all. Goosebumps after goosebumps.
I took so many photos of this day, that I still have to sort through them!
One thing to mention about about the complex, is that can be tough is avoiding all the vendors doing hard sell. However, the children definitely push the cute response buttons.
One little girl saw me arrive on my bike at Ta Phrom and directed me to where I could park. She had an 100 watt smile and coyly said that since she had helped me I should buy one of her fridge magnets. Cheeky rascal! Dammit though, she was so cute. The magnets were just $1 each and I bought two. Cheaper at the market no doubt, but the moment was priceless. They would make nice gifts in any case.
By midday I was baked and templed-out. No, actually, that’s not really true. I could have easily spent more time in the complex, but it was just so unbearably hot. It took its toll.
I got back on my bike and prepared to leave the complex.
Cambodian Police
As I was coming out of the side entrance, there was a Cambodian Policeman there.
The officer was friendly and asked me for no details, except where my bike was from etc. General chit chat, which seemed a little odd to me, going by all the stories I’ve read (normally after a bit of tea money, apparently..).
Although, he smiled in a way that made me a little nervous. I had been pre-warned that they often extort for odd miscellaneous reasons, so I was wary – especially as I had already been (minorly) extorted when getting my visa at the border (just $5 USD extra, but I did not complain).
He spotted the GoPro running from the beginning, and he was on his walkie-talkie quite a bit which somehow made me think there might be more to this story, so was a little hyper-alert. Maybe the GoPro put him off? I am not sure. Or, maybe I was just being silly.. but then again, good to be on your toes, eh..
Ah…but then later, as I was riding on, I spotted a police roadblock. I could see the policeman begin to walk out onto the road. But luck was on my side that day, because a passing big truck was just ahead of me and I decided to act like I was looking in my side mirror, not aware of any significance of the block, and ignored the policeman. It worked! Probably would have had no major issues except some possible made-up fine. But who knows?
I said goodbye to the beauty of Angkor and headed back to my room at the resort. I was hungry and tired. I ordered some food and figured I would go back to bed and nap for a bit. However, an overly friendly staff member took a liken to me and decided to talk the hind legs off me. It took me some time to get away, and when I did I realized that the conversation (or well, me listening), took more out of me in 15 minutes than the whole of my riding trip thus far..lol!
I rested in my room for some time then took a swim.
Scam?
I figured I should settle my hotel bill this day, because I planned on a very early checkout the next morning. I decided to get it all sorted so I would be good to go without delay or drama. I received the bill tally and the price was higher than expected, so I ask for a print out for my records. Turned out I was being charged $23 a night instead of $18. I pointed this out and the girl (who was the same girl I spoke to when initially enquiring) said that she had quoted the rooms as $25 but was giving me a discount. Hah! Bollox! Now I realise why she didn’t want me to pay at the time I checked in, and instead wanted me to pay before checking out. Anyway, that wasn’t on and I told her so. Funnily enough she dropped it back down quickly without much ado. Best to keep your eye out for this one it would seem…
Yes, I do realise that 7 USD per night is not the end of the world, but it is more the principle of it. I disliked the way it was all done.
Additionally, after I took a swim in the pool, when I returned to my room I noticed some GoPro items were missing, such as SD cards and additional batteries. Thankfully, I had already moved the photos on my computer and I had both my computer and my GoPro with me at the pool…
Evening in Siem Reap
In the evening I took a walk around the city to the local park area.
….and then to the infamous Pub Street area.
When I first came to Siem Reap Pub Street area was not as “glitzy” as it is now. So much seems to have changed.
The lovely hotel I stayed at was now a restaurant (which surprised me, because at the time it was apparently a very famous first hotel in Siem Reap). I asked a few tuk-tuk drivers about it, but none of them had any answers, just told me that so much had changed in recent years. It was also a thriving bustling place, full of foreigners.
Selfishly, I had hoped to revisit the old Siem Reap of my memories. I had even considered moving there at the time, but developed a chronic health issue and the infustructure was not as good as Thailand at that time.
After a walkabout I stopped in at restaurant on Pub Street for some food and a drink. I figured it might make for some interesting people watching. Ughh! ..but the seafood was so off I could smell it as soon as it arrived. Was inedible and had to send it back! The waitress said they would make me another one, but to be honest if the kitchen could send out food that was that badly off, I didn’t trust them to remake it.
I ate the spring rolls I ordered, despite them tasting like cardboard, and drank the terrible wine. I know I sound like a diva, sorry, just was shockingly bad! Last thing I needed was a dodgy stomach or food poisoning on a motorcycle trip!
After finishing my food I got one of Siem Reaps UBER-style taxi tuk-tuks. I downloaded the app called PassApp and my taxi got me back to my hotel in good time and good rate. No arguing about costs. Nice and easy.
– End of day 5
Day 6. Siem Reap to the cusp of Phu Kradueng, Thailand (630 KM)
I left the resort by around 6am. I planned to ride to Prasat Beng Mealea and then see how I feel after that. Maybe I would ride to Preah Vihear, if I had the energy (although I doubted it in truth). I figured that today I would just exit out at Sa-Ngam border (if possible) then back into Thailand. There were reports of not being able to exit at Sa-Ngam, but I figured that Osmach wasn’t so far away from Sa-ngam, so was worth the gamble. Plus the route looked a little better on google maps than the route I took coming in.
The road was busy, despite the early hour. Lots of commuters heading into the city (and a few dogs leaping into my path…)
I was getting tired of the busy straight road and decided to recheck google maps for an alternative route. There was one that looked interesting, so decided to take it.
Ho ho…
Well this road was relentless.. hot with lots of road works and gravel etc. I rode on for a bit to see if the road improved more, but no such luck, just got worse.It went on seemingly forever.
I stopped to check my GPS and the temple was still 55km away, with this road stretching for around 35kms before it re-joins the main road. If I back-tracked to the previous road then that would take me hours off schedule…and it was already so hot!
I weighed it all up and with the heat being in the high 30s and reaching 40s, and with temple fatigue setting in, I decided I’d had enough and wanted to head back into Thailand.
I had met my agenda (to visit Angkor Wat complex), I also had certain time constraints and commitments back in Chiang Mai, so there was no regrets in making the call to head to Sa-ngam border.
Sa-Ngam Border Crossing into Thailand
Thankfully, when I arrived at the odd wild-east casino border crossing. I had zero issues crossing. It was fast and friendly.
I even had a $10 note drop out my passport by mistake when the Cambodian immigration officer checked my passport, and he handed it straight to me!
I crossed over on the Thai side through the simple barriers and got stamped into Thailand. I suddenly realised at this point that I really missed mountains. Badly.
Big, Hot Ride…
So, now that I was over the border back into Thailand, I figured I may as well ride as far as I could until I could see a mountain. …and that turned out to be 100s of Km’s away. ..and so my ride that day was around 630kms!
My phone battery died en-route and I had a couple of backtracks before settling in Amphoe Chum Phae, close to Phu Wiang National Park. I could see a mountain! I was happy.
Arrived Khon Kaen (cusp of Loei Province)
I rested up in The Room Resort in Khon Kaen, on the cusp of Phu Kradueng mountain and Loei province. In my room I was tired but not able to wind down right away due to so many thoughts going through my head. So cue an episode of “The Silky Soft Hair Conditioner” saga. (I started doing these random voice overs on my trip in Laos, when resting up and bored. The saga began here: YouTube video)
– End of day 6
Day 7. Khon Kaen to Nam Pat (via Thai/Laos Border)
I was on my bike and ready by 6:30am. I started riding north. Mountains! Oh how refreshing! After so much flatness, I needed it!
The aqi was around 107, yet it was still a breath of fresh air.Yesterday’s long endurance ride was forgotten in the presence of lush greenery and mountainous scenes. Was like giving water to a thirsty camel!
As I was riding along I noticed this big development going on HERE
..and then also these interesting huge rock formations HERE
The road was fantastic and it was great to be in mountains again, after so much flatness in Cambodia and Isaan.
At one point I heard music in Na Haeo district, in Loei, at the base of Phu Suan Sai mountain. I had to investigate! I was so tempted to ride down to join but I felt really sweaty and uncomfortable. Maybe I should have anyway!
I rode on, hugging the Thai-Laos border road, until I reached my destination of Nam Pat.
Arrived Nam Pat
I checked into Takayai Resort 2, a firm favorite of mine and cleaned up. It felt good to have a warm shower. My body began to feel pretty weary.
Feeling hungry, I walked down the road to a great little restaurant that I love the food in. I was looking forward to a great feed, but unfortunately, it turned out she was shut and on holiday!
I ended up getting microwave food at 7/11. Not exactly thrilling, but filled the hole. I rested well.
– End of day 7
Day 8. Nam Pat to Phrae via Sirikit Dam
By 7am I was on the bike. It was to be a short riding day in comparison to the other days, so was happy to take it slow. Enjoyed the road a lot this day.
The R1339 route from Takayai Resort to Sirikit dam (where I intended to cross on a ferry). It was a bit broken up last time I was on it (two year ago), but this road had a lot of resurfacing done, so was a breeze to ride.
I stopped to take a photo of the road, only to end up covered in little flies. My clothes were actually smelling really good that day as I had washed them well in a really nice scented washing power. REALLY! Alas, it was the good smell that attracted more flies than the bad smell..haha. Dammit! (I am guessing they are little fruit flies. If not, then ? o.O )
I also had a bit of a giggle at this sign, also.
My first stop was at Sirikit dam crossing where I had to wait a while for a ferry to take me across the dam.
Queen Sirikit Dam
When I arrived at the ferry point at Queen Sirikit Dam, I had to wait a while for a ferry to come.
I decided to walk over to a nearby raft restaurant to wait, and ended up getting a nice tour from the raft owner, (who also lets you camp there overnight for 100 baht if you wish to. He says it is very quiet!)
This day was April 1st (April Fool’s Day), so decided to make a silly video of my bike at the dam..
Eventually the ferry arrived and I crossed over.
Off and away. All good! Phew! I got off at the other side and continued on my way.
Hot Season – Dry Dam
I stopped to take a quick video of this dam on the way, which is normally full to the brim and flowing. Now so very very dry!
The R4010
Now, this next route that I eneded up on was honestly one of the best roads ive been on!The R4010. Absolutely loved it! Just a pity it was so hot and dry with such bad air. In other months this road will be utter heaven.
Ironically, after having been on the route I read a new trip report on Gt.Rider forum about this exact route! Apparently it has a 26% gradient! Woohoo! No wonder it was so much fun. Rollercoaster-tastic! Report HERE.
Spotted some burning on this route also. I suspect this was controlled burning, as fire prevention, though.
My fuel was getting low by now, but thankfully there is always some local vendor with bottles of fuel in whiskey bottles, so I was able to buy a couple of them to keep me going.
When the R4010 connected with the 1342 to Phrae, that was also another piece of heaven road. Was a truly fantastic riding day and my best riding day of the trip.
Arrived Phrae
I arrived in the town of Phrae in the early afternoon, and checked into the Maeyom Palace Hotel , which gave me time to clean up and enjoy the pool there.
When checking in, I think the receptionist wasn’t too impressed with this biker lady turning up . The hotel was old, but had a lot of business-style guests. I guess me turning up in biker gear didn’t seem to go down to well. But, meh… never mind,
After the swim I ordered room service and I drank half a bottle of beer, then promptly fell into a deep deep sleep! I had been running on adrenaline and very little sleep for days. Suddenly it hit me and I slept like the dead for several hours. I had planned to have a ride around Phrae, but in the end I choose a warm bath and back to bed. I was shattered.
– End of day 8
Day 9. Phrae to Chiang Mai (secret route…)
I woke around 7am and took breakfast in the hotel (buffet included in the price). Was the usual non-descript fare of not so interesting foods, but ate a little anyway.
Was up and away by 9am. I had a great ride home on nice little b roads, whilst incorporating a trip to a favorite little secret Khmer style hidden place.
The Secret Place
(Update: This is now no longer a secret, the information for this place is here)
It felt great to have been in the real Angkor Wat complex just a few days ago, and now revisiting this Khmer-style version, closer to my home in Chiang Mai.
On my first visit to this temple I made this silly …
Arrived Chiang mai
I was looking forward to getting home. I missed my cat (who had been kindly taken care of by neighbours), and I was so happy to see her again. Within moments of getting home, all was calm in the world again.
– End of ride
Where I stayed
All of these locations had secure parking for vehicles.
Day 1: PhuFa Sai Resort, Khao Koh
Normally 2000 baht (but she discounted to 1500)
Close to Wat Prasornkaew. Stunning place with comfortable bed and lovely balcony view.
Day 2: Phimai Paradise Hotel, Phimai
550 baht
Walking distance to Phimai Historical park and good eateries. Comfortable bed and swimming pool.
Day 3/4/5: Sizen Retreat, Siem Reap
20 USD
Quiet bungalow style rooms. Comfortable bed and swimming pool. Good restaurant.
Day 6: The Room Resort, Khon Kaen
450 baht
Simple roadside hotel. Nothing special but clean and quiet.
Day 7: Takayai Resort 2, Nam Pat
500 baht
Clean and comfortable roadside hotel. Large rooms.
Day 8: Maeyom Palace Hotel, Phrae
700 baht
Old hotel but quiet with swimming pool. Breakfast included.
I hope you enjoyed this Cambodia trip report.
Leave a comment!
Great report Zed. I am yet to visit Siem Reap. I fear in the peak season it would be too touristy for me to enjoy.
I have added route 4010 that you liked to my collection. Shall ride that next time I visit.