Glorious Phetchabun Ride
Phetchabun Province | Rainy Season | 1200 KM Ride | 5 Days
(August 2018) I had my heart set on riding to Wat Prathat Phasornkaew in the Phetchabun mountain range, so that’s where I decided to head to come rain or shine..and rain it did (for one solid day!)
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Contents
Thailand Iconic Roads in the North
Big Bike Tours Recce Ride 2
5 Days 7 Provinces Loop
Border Ride. N.West to N.East – Northern Thailand.
Day 1. Chiang Mai to Phrae
On day one I needed to cover ground fast, so took the main R11 down to Ban Mae Khaem intersection (so much dusty road works here!) then took a right onto the 1023 to escape the main traffic route.
On the first leg of the journey I broke up the long highway ride by stopping in at The White Bridge railway bridge and then rode through Khun Tan National Park area. (A write up on this area is in my other trip report HERE).
The White Bridge
Tha Chomphu White Bridge is a historic concrete railway bridge located in Lamphun Province. It was built between 1918 and 1920 under the supervision of German engineer Emil Eisenhofer, this 87-meter-long structure uniquely utilizes reinforced concrete instead of traditional steel due to metal shortages during World War I.
I stopped in at The White Bridge Camping coffee shop, just along from the White Bridge. Great coffee and a nice view, (and “glamping” is available here, also).
After coffee, I headed back on the R11 and saw an interesting coffee shop en-route (Duomo Cafe), so stopped in.
Duomo Cafe
For some odd reason Duomo Cafe it was closed, even though the opening hours on the door stated it should be open.
No idea what was going on, so instead I sat inside the bus on the grounds and ate some snacks. Would be nice to visit it some time when it is open.
After visiting, I continued along the R11 then turned left onto the 1023 at Ban Mae Khaem. After approx 50kms I arrived at Doi Pha Klong National Park, where I stopped in for a quick visit.
Doi Pha Klong National Park
Doi Pha Klong National Park is the origin of many canals that flows into Yom River within an area of 112,500 rai. The park consists of mountainous landscapes and cliffs.
(you can get into the rock garden section for free, but the national park is 100 baht entry into the main section).
After the national park it was a steady ride through the outskirts of Phrae to the accommodation I found online. บ้านสวนกุหลาบแก้วรีสอร์ท.
บ้านสวนกุหลาบแก้วรีสอร์ท
This nice small resort of bungalows is situated next to a scenic rice paddy view (400 baht).
There was also a really nice restaurant on site, so was a perfect rest spot.
I ate very well that evening and headed to bed early.
– End of day 1
Day 2. Phrae to Nam Pat
In the morning I looked out across a beautiful view but had a distinct feeling in the air that rain was on it’s way, which was not good for my initial planned route.
My original route would take me to Queen Sirikit Dam where I would need to cross over on a small ferry and then ride up the clay steepish embankment at the opposite side. This could be a bad idea if it rained heavily, as it may mean the dam might be too high for crossing and that the embankment climb on the opposite side would be very wet and slippery (you can read about this route in my previous trip report HERE).
I decided to play it by ear for a bit and see if it was worth carrying on along my planned route or take the rather boring main route instead.
Coffee at ร้านกาแฟคุณหมอ
After a quick coffee break at ร้านกาแฟคุณหมอ I checked out and headed out to Phae Mueang Phi Forest Park.
Phae Mueang Phi Forest Park.
Phae Mueang Phi is an interesting national park in which the natural erosion of sandstone has formed various unusual shapes.
Some nice walking trails are around there too and some great little restaurants.
As I was walking through the forest park the heavens began opening up and the rains came..getting steadily heavier and heavier. Drat! It wasn’t letting up and now it looked like boring plan b needed to be executed after all.
After walking some short trails, I went back to the parking area, to stop for breakfast. I ate a very fresh and tasty Somtam Thai and a couple of local dogs had a nice big piece of barbecued chicken to dine on by my side.
I put on my rain gear and set off on a VERY wet ride.
A very wet ride…
During the ride, I had to pull over a few times when it became excessively heavy. Thank goodness for little shelters along rice paddy fields!
En-route I spotted a few vehicles that had rolled and also one vehicle that was hanging slightly off the side of the mountain cliff with policeman and people trying to prise it back onto the road.
Arrived Nam Pat
By the time I had arrived at my accommodation (Takayai Resort 2) (450 baht) in Nam Pat I was drenched wet and feeling very cold. (I have wet weather gear but initially I didn’t have it on and most rain gear would have trouble withstanding that level of rain).
As I cleaned up then headed to ร้านอาหารกังสดาล restaurant where I ate well.
I felt apprehensive and concerned about the next days ride. Not such a good feeling really, and caused me a restless sleep. I also hoped that my gear would dry out in time for the next day…
– End of day 2
Day 4. Nam Pat to Phetchabun
Finally a fantastic day of riding!
The morning revelation…
Woke up to dry weather but a little concerned about my Forma Adventure boots! No matter, I knew i had cable ties and electrical tape if there were any issues.
The fantastic ride took me into the pineapple region of Nam Pat and along the Thai/Laos border mountains.
Phu Soi Dao Waterfall
I stopped in at Phu Soi Dao Waterfall for a simple lunch and then carried along the border route on the non-stop twisties that seem to go on for forever (in the best possible way!).
At a checkpoint zone, the border control checkpoint police also came to have a chat with me and wished me good luck for my journey.
Bike Fitness…
At a small scenic town (Saeng Pha ),I stopped to eat a snack and spotted this public fitness area. I thought it might make a funny video so enlisted a poor victim to record it.
Also spotted this interesting vehicle in the same town too.
Once i hit the intersection at Na Haeo I took a left onto the R2113 and carried on south, stopping at Dan Sai for a coffee break.
Dan Sai
In Dan Sai, I enjoyed a really nice coffee at a place opposite from Chu.a.pa cafe.
It was good timing, because it began to rain hard for a short spell.
As I was getting ready to leave I noticed three gorgeous little tabby cats at the shop across the road. As a self-confessed Crazy Cat Lady I had to go to see them.
On the outskirts of Dan Sai I stopped at the viewpoint. Some fantastic statues are along this viewpoint also. The main group statue called out to me. Telling me it was time to dance….
After Dan Sai it was a quick ride down to my accommodation in Phetchabun.
Arrived Phetchabun
I stayed in a stunning small bungalow (Phu Fa Sai Resort -1500 baht. Originally it was 2000, but she gave it to me for 1500) which offer amazing views of Wat Prathat Phasornkaew.
I had been to this area once before (August 2016) and wondered if my memory still served me right. I recall it being breathtakingly beautiful but wasn’t sure if i would still think so this time around. However, it did not fail to take my breath away again. Absolutely stunning views!
For dinner I ate at Jollyland, a very pretty restaurant on the R12, then headed to bed.
– End of day 3
Day 4. Phetchabun to Lampang
I did not expect to be riding to Lampang but a few factors threw me off-course and messed up my thinking process about the route plan. Originally I had planned to ride the twisty R2331, maybe stopping in at Phu Tubberk and then probably head into Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park, but i noticed a route closure on the R2331 which would mean a big around detour and/or doubling back considerably on myself. (A previous trip report on this area is HERE)
So, I made the decision to head to Sukhothai (the Historical Park had been on my bucket list for some time). As it turned out, Sukhothai Park (as beautiful as it is), really wasn’t worth the massive detour on highway roads. In hindsight I wish I had just doubled back on myself and gone north (seeing as the weather was holding up). I could have retraced the route over the opposite side of Sirikit Dam.
Anyway, in the early morning I headed to the stunning Wat Prathat Phasornkaew..and it was breathtakingly beautiful!!
Wat Prathat Phasornkaew
This temple really has to be seen to be believed. It is really a work of art!
There was so much to feast the eyes on!
The details were spectacular, and every inch was covered in tiny mosaic pieces, which glinted in the morning sun.
I felt like I had been transported to another world.
The timing was perfect and the clouds were spectacular. A work of art!
After enjoying the temple I went to Moai@KhaoKho for a coffee
Moai@KhaoKho
At Moai I figured I would have yet another silly dance moment…
..and a silly photo op.
After coffee I stopped in at a fresh fruit and vegetable market…and was amazed at how great the fruit and veg looked.
Bought some fruit and headed back to the hotel to pack up.
Next stop Sukhothai.
Route to Sukhothai
The R12 route to Sukhothai sadly went from glorious mountain epic-ness, to long straight boring highway. It was a tedious ride and I was beginning to regret my decision of riding to Sukhothai.
When the signs for Sukhothai finally came into view, I was relieved.
Sukhothai Historical Park
Sukhothai is the capital of the Lanna Kingdom in the 13th and 14th centuries.
At Sukhothai, I met this little boy who was shaking a plastic bottle.
I stopped to chat with him and he told me he was collecting crickets to cook and eat. Haha! He told me they are very delicious 😀
After Sukhothai I took the scenic R1048 north, which although lovely in many sections was just too straight and flat really.
Rock Formations
Whilst riding, I spotted these amazing rock formations.
I later found out that these are caves and hundreds of bats nest there, and can be seen flying out at sunset. Amazing!
Arrived Lampang
I continued riding until i reached the outskirts of Lampang and I checked into Lampang Vintage (540 baht) for the night. I cleaned up then ate close by (at ครัวลำปาง) and the food was good, but i struggled with my tiredness and weariness from overthinking and lots of riding. I slept hard that night. Like I had been hit by a baton.
– End of day 4
Day 5. Lampang to Chiang Mai
I woke early and initially I had thought to head to Wat Chalermprakiat (trip report for that temple HERE) and possibly head through Chae Son National park, but my mood was broken from some personal thing on my mind…
Instead I just headed straight back to Chiang Mai. Such is life sometimes! Stopped in at กาเเฟตราเเพะ for a coffee.
Then a quick stop at Wat Doi Ti, next door.
At least I had a happy cat to return home to!(Who, as always, had kindly been taken care of by my wonderful neighbours!)
– End of ride.
I hope you enjoyed this Phetchabun report.
Leave a comment!
Hey Zed,
Good to see your site back online and thanks for posting your ride. As always informative and some ideas I will consider for when I am back in CM for another ride next Jan.
I’m just back from riding Turkey. 2000 photos to sort through but something on my blog soon.
regards, Warren.
Thank you so much for the support! 😀