Ao Nang & Island Tour – 10 years in Thailand, never seen an Island!
Ao Nang | Krabi Province | Hot Season | 3 Days
April 2016. After nearly 10 years living in Northern Thailand, I finally visit the south! Just a flying visit really!
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Contents
Ao Nang, Southern Thailand. A Flying Visit.
Day 1. Chiang Mai to Krabi
I flew direct to Krabi without any fuss with Air Asia, and arrived in Krabi at 4pm.
Krabi Airport
Krabi airport is small, but has a fair few visitors, so maybe I was just lucky that it was very quiet upon my arrival.
Transport from Krabi Airport to Ao Nang
The two main options available for me seemed to be Shuttle Bus costing 150 baht (at time of posting), which would drop me at my hotel, (but gets pretty packed so will likely be a while getting me there). Or, via private taxi costing 600 baht (at time of posting). Good value if you have a group as the taxi seats 10 or so people. The taxi takes around 20 – 30 minutes.
(However, I had good Karma that day because i got a free taxi ride due to helping someone out. Always pays to be nice!)
Ao Nang
As i was arriving late and didn’t wish to have to search for accommodation, so I pre-booked online via Agoda. I was rather bummed at missing out on an opportunity to stay at the Centara Anda Dhevi for a reduced cost (a manager friend in Chiang Mai knows the manager of Centara, but sadly they were fully booked on my dates), so i decided to go Cheap Charlie and seek a simple experience. I got one… I stayed at Jinda Guesthouse, which had good reviews on Trip Adviser.
Jinta Guesthouse
At Jinta Guesthouse, the price for a fan room was 367 baht (but if you just turn up its only 300). …and a shared bathroom! I forgot to take photos but basically it was a hot room with no view and a dingy small shared bathroom!
Im no “princess” but i don’t think I’ll do shared bathroom or dingy backpacker style again in a hurry, if i can help it. It was quite an experience…
Scooter Rental
Again, i did a bit of research beforehand and Wan rentals kept coming up as honest and fair. They charge 200 baht a day and have a range of scooters. They were also right on the doorstep of Jinda Guesthouse, making it very convenient. I decided to just go ahead and rent a bike for the whole three days, even though I likely wouldn’t fit in much riding. I just didn’t want the bother of taxi “mafia” etc.
No discount given for 3 days, but maybe if staying longer they would. I found out where the nearest petrol station was (a few km up from the rental) and filled her up.
Ao Nang at Night
I was basically out at the tourist strip of Ao Nang. Initially i rode on the scooter up and down the area to get a basic feel for the place, then parked up across from the coastline in the main strip (Center Point). I walked around and checked out the shops (which basically all sell the same things pretty much).
I noted that a great deal of shop and restaurant owners seemed not to be Thai. Seemed Middle Eastern? I’m not sure. At one restaurant, whilst checking out the menu outside, a waiter/greeter ask me what food i like to eat and i named a Thai dish. He didn’t understand and so i asked him if he knows Thai language. He didn’t. I get the feeling many around there maybe can’t. Was strange to me. Anyway, I don’t like pushy wait staff or shop owners (and most were frankly), so i settled on the first decent place that i was left to peruse the menu at.
I ordered a prawn dish and although the prawns were plump and delicious, i wasn’t impressed with the sauce. I think its because the dishes are for a more general palate and i am used to authentic spicy flavorful Thai food. Thai would call the dish จืด, which basically means bland.
After dinner i decided to walk a bit before heading back, so headed for Center Point and Walking Street. In Chiang Mai (where i live) walking streets are huge, so I was surprised when i entered walking street only to walk a few meters and come out of it again! Its not quite what i imagined and a long walking peruse was seemingly off the cards that night. I walked around the area a few times including walking along the beach front (the sound of the waves was very nice).
I also checked out a few tour agents but settled on calling one i had previously found online: Andaman Sea Travel. They offered a good price for a Hong Island + 7 island Sunset Tour (1200 baht including lunch and dinner – but not including island fees). Booked with them over the phone and they arranged a pickup for the morning at my hotel. Bought myself a big bottle of water and drove back to my room for an early night.
I’m pretty sure Ao Nang stays open till the early hours because people are in party/holiday mode. Judging by the noise many of the guests made coming in at 2am and 3am, im pretty sure Ao Nang has a nightlife. Just didn’t see for myself, so i cannot say for sure what it is like.
End of day 1
Day 2. Island Tour
I woke up early and was picked up from my hotel by the tour company.
Tour Company: Andaman Sea Travel* (*booked through Andaman Sea Travel, but actual company was Lucky Krabi Tour). Price: 1200 baht (at time of post – NOT including National Park fees)
Intinery:
10:45am – Pickup (later than informed)
11:15am – Ao Nammao Pier (payment and a LONG wait to set off)
12:00pm – Head off to Hong Lagoon (snorkeling plus lunch)
(not sure of timings here as didnt keep an eye on clock. So no timings given till later)
–:– pm – Lading Island (snorkeling and explore)
–:– pm – Hong Island (explore and relax)
–:– pm – Daeng Island (snorkeling)
16:00 pm – Tub Island (explore)
–:– pm – Poda Island (cancelled due to lack of time)
16:45 pm – Chicken Island (snorkeling)
17:30 pm – Railay Island (BBQ dinner and Fire Show)
19:00 pm – Bio-Phosphorous Plankton (snorkeling)
20:00 pm – Back at Pier & transport home
I enjoyed the tour, but here is a comprehensive breakdown:
Overall Impression
For a quick introduction to the islands, this tour was great. However, there is really very little time to explore or digest your surroundings. Its just good for an overall impression. If i had more time i would have booked additional single island trips, but i felt i made the best choice for an overall perspective.
It was a good price and i felt good value for money. Not much tour talking/guiding and for some that may not be good, but I personally enjoyed being able to soak up what I’m seeing without commentary.
Food
The food was ok but more geared towards a general palate. I like spicy and enjoy authentic Thai food. I found the food given fairly tame and a little bland. But still good value considering the price of the tour.
Snorkeling
As a first time snorkeler, this was fun for me. Those who have experienced more snorkeling may have a different perspective. I loved every minute as i usually hate to have my head underwater. Snorkeling took that issue away and gave me unadulterated joy of underwater exploring.
Fire Show
Not really that showman-like to be honest, but i enjoyed it anyway. Mainly because a young kid was participating and also our tour guide. So, that was entertaining.
Islands
Fantastic to see them, especially all the coral and limestone. Truly amazing. My top islands were Hong Island for the shear beauty of it and Tub Island for exploring around the exposed coral.
Swimming with Plankton at Night
This was a really magical moment for me. Swimming in the pitch black Andaman Sea and seeing the phosphorus plankton illuminate in the water.
– End of day 2
Day 3. Morning in Ao Nang (then Back to Chiang Mai)
My plan of getting up early and doing either another tour or explore far went out the window when I awoke to the reality of some badly sunburned skin and coral cuts. The wisest plan of action was to drench myself in aloe and cover up. I went back to sleep for a bit until i packed up and checked out at 10:30am.
Jinda kindly allowed me to keep my bag stored in their locker for pickup later and so i hopped on the bike and went for a ride around. I was determined to get some of my moneys worth out of the bike rental.
Nopparat Thara Beach & More
I rode to to Nopparat Thara Beach and a few other areas and getting through just over half a tank of petrol before deciding to head back.
Oh backtrack, i also had a coffee in Ao Nang before riding. I have to say that i was really surprised by the lack of coffee shops in Ao Nang. Mainly because im used to living in coffee-shop-central Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is coffee shop mad and the selection is enormous, from simple streetside coffee vendors (real coffee as well as drip and instant) to fancier venues and 24 hour businesses. So having to SEARCH for a coffee shop was a new one on me. I did find a nice looking one next to Starbucks but the coffee was rather bland for me. At 130 baht it made me balk too. Especially seeing as my regular coffee place in Chiang Mai, which serves really nice coffee, is only 35 baht! So, not quite my cup of tea. …er, i mean coffee.
Food at Nang-An Seafood
After the bike ride i headed for some food and went to Nang-An Seafood restaurant. I enjoyed the ยำทะเล (seafood salad) but the staff in general were surly. Afterwards i took a stroll along the beach.
By then it was time to head back to return the bike and set off for the airport.
Back to Ao Nang Airport
Returned the bike with no issues and inquired about transport to the airport. Karma is kind again and after speaking with the owner in Thai she wavered my taxi fee. She told me no fee because i rented a bike that i returned early, that i speak Thai and that i am lovely and polite..(so again, it always pays to be nice!) Left with a smile on my face as i got picked up by an aircon taxi and sent on my way.
Krabi airport has no WIFI. It pretends it does, but it doesn’t, lol. You cant self check in either. But it does have coffee shops, so I was happy. I went though the whole check-in, x-ray, waiting, boarding malarkey and was happy to be heading home. I do wish that I had more time, or rather that i hadn’t got sunburn and made better use of my time, but I was still happy to be going home.
Weird story… On the flight i got caught short and had to use the bathroom. I was in the window seat and had to disturb the couple next to me to get to out. You would have thought by their reaction (verbal as well as vibe) that i had asked them to donate me a kidney. I even apologised, but was met with disgusted looks. I will keep this blog polite, but some phrases are going through my head…
The irony is that after disembarking I saw them asking people about where to get a taxi etc. and looking generally lost and confused. I could have helped them, but I didn’t. I left and got on my bike that i had parked up in the airport carpark. I admit that i felt a little bad, but “สมน้ำหน้า!” they say in Thai. “Serves You Right!”. See… it always pays to be NICE! (which they weren’t! ..but maybe i was also not nice for not helping..and now my good Karma will go….:( )
Chiang Mai
When the plane began to descend into Chiang Mai, the haze and polluted skies were a stark contrast to the clear blue skies of the south. Burning Season was still in full swing.
Even so, I confess, it was good to be back in Chiang Mai. I am just more of a mountain and fresh water river girl. My scooter was still safely locked up, so I unlocked it, hopped on and headed home.
– End of trip
Overall Impressions
Seafood fresh but best when prepared simply. LOTS of tourists. More costly than the north. Stunning Islands. Island Thai language sounds funny and sing-songy. Locals look an interesting Malay kind of mix-look. Coffee shops thin on the ground (this is obviously a big thing for me lol). Sun protection def required!
I hope you enjoyed this Ao Nang trip report.
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