Samoeng to Wat Chan to Pai – The Back Road Adventure
Mae Hong Son Province | Cool Season | 327 KM Loop
When I heard that the back road from Samoeng to Pai passed through Wat Chan, I thought it would make a great alternative to the main Route 1095. At the time, the main Pai road was still undergoing major construction, so I fancied trying something a little different.
What I got was beautiful mountain scenery, wonderfully quiet roads, some very rough sections… and a motorcycle battery that decided to give up halfway through the trip!
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Contents
Pai Travel Guide: What to Do, Where to Stay &…
The Pai Loop
Epic Mae Hong Son Loop – An Epic Twist!
Outbound Ride – 200 KM to Pai Via Wat Chan
The Route – Main Highway
Starting out from Chiang Mai city, I rode first to Samoeng, then followed Route 1349 towards Yang Ha before continuing to Ban Wat Chan. From there I joined Route 1265 towards Pai.
Once I left Samoeng behind, the roads became wonderfully quiet. The scenery was absolutely stunning, with rolling mountains and forests stretching out in every direction. It felt like I’d escaped the busier tourist routes and found a hidden corner of Northern Thailand.
At the time, Route 1095 was a mess because of all the construction work, so this seemed like a much nicer option. I only wish I’d done this ride with blogging in mind because I would have taken more photos and made better notes!
The Rough Stuff
The road started off reasonably well, with sections that had recently been resurfaced.
However, between Yang Ha and Wat Chan things gradually became much rougher. There were around 60 km of patchy road conditions, with approximately 30 km consisting of bumpy dirt ridges, loose gravel and rocky sections.
I have to admit… dirt and gravel still make me nervous.
A previous accident on gravel had really knocked my confidence, so riding these sections wasn’t exactly relaxing. I spent most of the rough bits feeling tense, with aching shoulders from gripping the handlebars far tighter than I should have.
Battery Says No…
As if the rough roads weren’t enough, my bike decided it had another surprise waiting for me. The battery suddenly started giving up.
To cut a long story short, I ended up clutch-starting the bike and then trying not to stop again until I reached Pai. That also meant I couldn’t risk stopping for fuel, because if the battery wouldn’t restart afterwards, I’d be completely stuck. So I crossed my fingers and kept going. Thankfully the battery held on almost all the way.
Almost…
Once I reached the outskirts of Pai, the bike finally admitted defeat and I ended up being towed into town with a rope. Not quite the grand entrance I’d planned… but at least I made it!
The mechanic’s shop then tried fitting a battery that was far too small, so after a bit of explaining they disappeared into the back and found the correct one. Thankfully, that solved the problem.
Phew!
By the time I reached my accommodation in Pai, I felt completely drained. My nerves had taken over. Even so, I’m glad I did it. Every ride like this helps build experience, and little by little I’m becoming more confident riding on dirt and gravel.
A quiet Night – in Pai
Unfortunately, my usual place to stay, Pairadise, was fully booked because I hadn’t reserved a room in advance. Instead, I stayed at Pailanna Resort, just down the road.
It turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The room was comfortable, the restaurant served really good food, and after the day’s excitement, a quiet evening was exactly what I needed.
The following morning I grabbed a coffee, had a gentle ride around Pai, and then headed back towards Chiang Mai.
Inbound Ride – 130 KM Direct to Chiang Mai
The Route – Main R1905
I took the main R1095 from Pai back to Chiang Mai. Construction was probably around 80% complete by then, so apart from a few sticky patches of fresh tarmac, the ride was actually very enjoyable.
It was easy to see how good this road was going to be once all the work had finished.
Conclusion – Reflecting on The Ride
Despite the rough road sections and the unexpected battery drama, I’m really glad I chose this route.
The scenery was beautiful, there was hardly any traffic, and it made a nice alternative to the busy main road to Pai.
Would I ride it again?
Definitely. (Although hopefully next time with a healthier battery!)
Thank you very much Zoe, I really enjoy your movie about your trip to Pai – I can learn a lot from it. Allways have save trips !
Thanks Josefine! Safe travels and if you need any info, happy to help if i can.