Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat, Tha Chumphu Bridge & Khun Tan Station (Highest Railway Station in Thailand)
Chiang Mai & Lampang Province | Rainy Season | 324 KM Ride | 2 Days
(27th June 2018) For some time I had been meaning to visit both Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat and the Khun Tan Station, but somehow never got around to it. With an impending GT.Rider (fab website and forum for rider info) meetup planned in Lampang (close to both the temple and station), I decided it was a good excuse to finally visit these places whilst also getting a chance to catch up with rider friends.
My plan was to head to the temple on day one, then ride to Khun Tan Station the next day.
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Contents
Day 1. Chiang Mai to Lampang
I set of on a late (rainy) morning ride down the R11 from Chiang Mai to Lampang. I avoided Lampang city and headed north on the R1157 towards the temple. Not a great choice of road as it cut through a lot of villages, but on the plus side it had stopped raining.
As I was riding along the 1157 I spotted a side road leading to the temple that is not on google maps. So I took that road, and that’s when I finally started to enjoy the ride. This road was quiet and scenic and the stunning limestone mountain of Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat was in clear view.
Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat
Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat was built in honour of King Rama IV on top of a limestone mountain. A true wonder!
Info:
Entry Fee: 100 Baht (for transportation to the mountain top staircase)
Restaurant: at base of mountain (closed at off-peak times/seasons)
Coffee Shop & Snacks: at base of mountain and at the start of the trail up.
At the base of the mountain route I was informed that no private vehicles or bikes are allowed up the main temple route and that I would need to go by one of the vehicles assigned to take people up and down. The cost for a return trip was only 100 baht, so very cheap really! I paid for my ticket and waited for the driver.
Felt a little daunting to put my life in the hands of an unknown driver going up a steep mountain road, but the driver informed me that he had been doing this run for 18 years, and around 8 times a day! Not one accident! He did tell me of a BWM motorbike accident though. Apparently a big BMW bike fell down the mountain coming down from the temple. Rider was ok as they rolled off onto the road, but the bike slid right down and was destroyed. This is the only recorded accident he knows of.
It took a while to get to the top of the mountain, and the driver dropped me off at the start of the walking / hiking point. (Just below this point was a small drinks and snack vendor, so that is good to know in case you forget to bring water).
The ascent to the top of the temple was fairly steep. The steps were made from corrugated steel, but some areas were step-free and were just craggy root and rock bound sections and a little muddy. At around 400 – 500 meters it is a bit of a workout (some reports have it at as much as an 800 meter climb, but i believe it was around 500), especially on a hot and humid day (which by then it was). It is a steep hike in some sections, so not a trip for the faint hearted.
Eventually I reached the the temple grounds and once I saw the view, I knew it was all worth it. Absolutely spectacular!
There are two sections to the temple, so make sure to follow both paths. Each path leads to spectacular lookouts. Lots of bells and gongs on route too, so make them sing!
After enjoying the view for a while I headed back down to the pickup point and called up the driver (who had given me his phone number prior to setting off). Was a nice ride back down and I knew I was in good hands.
Quiet Route to Lampang
When I was back on my bike I checked for an alternative route into Lampang City. I noticed a reservoir on one route that would take slightly longer (the R1335), and decided that this one would most likely be a more scenic route.
Turned out my hunches were correct and it was a fantastic road!
Arrived Lampang
At Lampang city I headed straight for my hotel (Pin Hotel) where I cleaned up then joined the GT Rider meet-up at Riverside Restaurant and Bar. (I paid 490 baht for my hotel via Agoda.com. The guys paid over 700 for the same hotel and room size. So, best to shop around for bargains.)
Just three of us joined for this meet-up, but the conversation and company was great. I was the first to head back to the hotel though as I was feeling tired and a migraine was beginning to kick in from the air pressure.
– End of day 1
Day 2. Back to Chiang Mai
In the morning I checked out of the Pin hotel at around 9:30am, and went to meet my friend David Unkovich for coffee at Flat White Cafe.
Opposite this coffee shop was the stunning Wat Chiang Rai, which begged for a photo op, so after great coffee and scones we headed over to the temple to get some photos.
As luck would have it there were students at the temple taking photos, so was another great excuse for a photo op with them included too.
They were absolutely wonderful and was a fun moment.
After the photos I left David to take more photos in the city area whilst I headed off for Khun Tan Railway Station, (back on the main R11 highway again..Zzz).
I made good time as this highway is pretty much straight boring riding, but at least it is consistently fast. I took the turn off for Khun Tan National Park (clearly signposted) and headed off to the station through rural villages.
My first stop before Khun Tan Station was The White Bridge & Tha Chomphu Railway area.
Ta Chomphu / The White Bridge
Completed in 1920, this historic Western style steel bridge was constructed to cross the Mae Tha River. Originally the bridge was painted black but during WWII, but was painted white when allied forces considered bombing it to obstruct the Japanese railway route. Being white made the bridge hard to spot from the air, and prevented it being destroyed.
The turnoff on the to the famous Tha Chomphu Bridge is clearly marked. There is a fab coffee shop near to the bridge and also small restaurants that line the riverside.
I took a series of photos then set off to the crossover railway point near by.
Tha Chomphu Railway
Was good timing, because when I arrived at the crossing point the barriers began to go down. I figured I was going to get some great footage of a large train passing. This is the sight that met my eyes… haha.
Next I headed directly to Khun Tan National Park zone.
After the initial national park checkpoint i rode up until i reached the junction which leads to the national park headquarters (left) and the railway station (right). I took the path on the right and headed up the single lane route.
Khun Tan Railway & Tunnel
Khun Tan Railway Station is the highest train station in Thailand, with an elevation of 758 meters.
The railway has a fascinating history to it with stories of tiger mauling’s, snakes and leaches and parasitic diseases. It links all the way to Bangkok, and the tunnel itself is 1362.10 metres in length, cutting through solid granite bedrock.
The tunnel began construction in 1907 and was completed by 1918, during the reign of King Rama V. It became known as the Cemetery of Labourers, due to more than 1,000 workers having died during its construction, either due to accidents or disease.
The labourers, who were mostly from Laos and the northeast of Thailand, were apparently heavy opium users and agreed to work on the project as long as their pay-packets were supplemented with opium. Emil Eisenhofer is the German railway engineer that was in charge of the Khun Tan tunnel, and his ashes are interred above the tunnel entrance.
It was interesting to finally see this picturesque station and tunnel, so sweet looking given it’s rather gruesome history. I had a walk around for a while before heading back on my bike and back down and out the park entrance.
Back roads to Chiang Mai
I took a leisurely route back to Chiang Mai, choosing to avoid the main highway as much as possible. I headed north on the R1230 then took the R1229, a road I absolutely loved!
This was the most fun I had on all the roads I had been on this trip. Nice and twisty and very quiet. Had a bonus of a fantastic large white Buddha statue also.
Arrived Chiang Mai
As I rode into Chiang Mai and into the city traffic I became a little disheartened at the heavy traffic which is so common place now. The air felt heavy with bustling city life.
However, was good to get home as I had a bundle of fur looking forward to my return.
Brilliant trip and I look forward to exploring more around this area.
– End of ride.
Video Highlights
I hope you enjoyed this Lampang trip report.
Leave a comment!
Enjoyed that, thank you.
This is something i would like to do next time i come to Thailand.
It will take some organizing to get things in place especially as i am in England right now.
For now i have to rely on you blogs which i find very interesting and motivating.
Thank you once again.
Thank you for the comment Dave..and hope you get to see these next time. I think you will love these places..they are very much worth going to see 😀