Chiang Mai Province | Cool Season | 165 KM Ride | 1 Day
Sept 2019 – The plan was simple. Head out for a couple of hours, have a gentle explore around the Samoeng area, enjoy the quieter roads, then head home.
As usual… …that didn’t quite happen. Instead, what was supposed to be a short morning ride somehow turned into nine hours of wandering through back roads, discovering hidden places and generally following my curiosity wherever it decided to lead me.
Those are usually the best kind of rides.
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Contents
Thailand Iconic Roads in the North
Big Bike Tours Recce Ride 2
5 Days 7 Provinces Loop
Border Ride. N.West to N.East – Northern Thailand.
Outbound
The ride out. I left Chiang Mai city just before 8am and headed north, with only a rough idea of making an anti-clockwise loop through the mountains.
One of the things I love most about taking the quieter roads is the random things you come across. One minute you’re riding through peaceful countryside. The next you’re greeted by a warning sign for peacocks…
Beware of Peacocks & Cows
…then of course, there are the random cows unexpectedly casually strolling across the road, without a care in the world, which can catch you out if you are not careful.
Hidden Vietnamese Temple
The first real surprise of the day appeared in a valley I’d ridden through countless times before. Hidden behind an entrance I’d never paid much attention to was a remarkable Vietnamese Buddhist temple. I honestly couldn’t believe I had passed this place so many times over the years without ever stopping.
Riding through the entrance felt strangely surreal. It reminded me of stepping through the wardrobe in The Chronicles of Narnia, leaving the ordinary world behind and emerging somewhere completely unexpected.
The grounds were completely silent.
Only a handful of friendly dogs quietly wandering around, looking as though they had appointed themselves caretakers.
Although the temple showed plenty of signs of life, it also had an unfinished, almost forgotten feel to it.
Some areas had been beautifully maintained, while others were slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Moss covered the pathways, vegetation crept between the statues and unfinished sections hinted at much grander plans that had perhaps never quite been completed. That was part of its charm.
Scattered throughout the grounds were beautifully designed lights shaped like lotus leaves and cherry blossoms, together with discreet speakers gently playing Vietnamese Buddhist chants.
The whole atmosphere was wonderfully peaceful.
I could only imagine how magical the place must look after sunset when all the lights come to life. It is one of those places that photographs simply don’t do justice.
After wandering around for quite a while, my thoughts inevitably turned towards coffee. So, I left the temple and headed back out on my bike.
Uniteq Cooling Vest
It was only around ten in the morning, but the rainy season humidity was already making itself known. Fortunately, this gave me the perfect opportunity to test out the new cooling vest I had recently received.
A quick stop at a village shop for some cold water and a snack, and I was back on the road again feeling considerably more comfortable.
On the way to my favourite little coffee stop, another temple caught my eye. Not because of the buildings themselves, but because an enormous new Naga staircase was slowly taking shape beside the road.
Thailand always seems to be building another temple somewhere. Even after years of living here, I still find myself stopping to admire them.
Coffee Stop
I stopped at one of my favorite coffee places for a cool iced cappuccino.
Coffee break over, I headed off again.
Inbound
I made the decision to just ride on whichever road looked interesting. I didn’t worry about the time or where I was going.
A few hours later I stopped for lunch at a small resort, enjoying the chance to sit in the shade before continuing further south through the countryside.
Eventually, I began to get hungry
Royal Train Resort
For lunch, I stopped at the Royal Train Resort.
I had always planned to stop to eat there, but never had until now.
It was interesting to see the old trains.
…and the gardens were beautiful.
I enjoyed the gardens for a while, then set off again, But enroute, this happened…
Wat Doi Sapphanyu,
When I arrived at Wat Doi Sapphanyu, the staircase and three giant Buddha statues were stunning.
The climb to the top was certainly enough to remind me I’d been sitting on a motorcycle most of the day.
But, every step was worth it, because at the top I was rewarded with views that stretched across the surrounding countryside.
The Buddha statues themselves, were absolutely huge!
I also noticed that beneath the forearms of one of the statues, bees had built their hives. It almost looked as though the Buddha was sheltering them. Nature and religion quietly existing together.
On the way back down, I noticed something that made me smile. The Naga handrails had become an unofficial donation box, with folded banknotes tucked carefully into the dragon’s scales.
The final wildlife encounter of the day came in the form of a rather nervous green tree snake.
I imagine it will be safer being at the bottom of the steps.
The Ride Back
As the afternoon drifted into evening, I finally pointed the bike towards Chiang Mai. Nine hours had somehow slipped by.
I had set out expecting little more than a relaxing morning ride. Instead, I found hidden temples, quiet country roads, unexpected wildlife, beautiful scenery and enough little discoveries to remind me why I still love exploring Northern Thailand after all these years.
Sometimes the rides you remember most are never the ones you planned. They’re the ones where you simply keep riding to see what’s around the next corner.
– End of Ride
I hope you enjoyed this 9-hour explore.
Leave a comment!
Great stuff as usual! Keep it up! Please fix the PayPal donation button when you have a chance – it forwards me to PayPal with $5 in the shopping cart, no matter what amount I select (macOS, Chrome 77)
Thank you so much for letting me know about the button. I “think” I have fixed and thank you for wanting to do that for me! I am not so great with the website side of things, so I messed up the code.
Really appreciated 🙏
Thanks Zed, another couple places I will consider for my next ride there. Actually I started working on the routing for it this week and I think I will detour to see that wat. Regards, Warren.
I love your reports khun Zed . You seem to ride whit out a big strict plan, explore what comes up during the ride.
I am sure I will see you around some next corner I come on my” path ”
Looking forward to your next adventure and what the west turn out to be
Per
I am glad you enjoy them Per..and I am sure we will cross paths some time when out and about!
As for planning, I tend to have a loose idea about what my riding goal or route is for each ride, but then allow room within the plan (or allow the plan to be scrapped if something better comes up).
In that way rides are fun and more spontaneous in my opinion.
Too much can go wrong or be stressful if a strict plan is in place. Riding for me should be about adventure and fun..and a too rigid plan can take away from that I think.
Safe travels.. I really enjoy reading your reports also!