“Muang Sing or Bust” – Riding in Laos, Up to The Chinese Border
Laos | Cool Season | 1170 KM Ride | 6 Days
(November 2017) I had a last minute offer from my friend David to join in on a ride to Laos. He planned on heading to Muang Sing, for a festival that was being held there (the Boun That Xieng Teung festival). Given that I had been wanting the experience of taking my motorbike across into Laos and riding there for some time, plus the fact that David already knew the ropes so well, it was an opportunity I had to take.
Just one snag. I only had one day to prepare everything! It was a bit of a mad last minute rush, but in the end, I got there.
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Contents
Laos Visa Ride. 10 Incredible Days – Northern Thailand &…
Laos Adventure
Day 1. Chiang Mai to Huay Xai
The ride out. Meeting at the PTT on the 118 we left at approximately 9:30am and rode together to Charin Pai for coffee and cake.
Charin Pai
Charin Pai has been operating since 1992, and is famous for their really delicious cakes and pastries. It was a wonderful indulgent treat for our ride.
After enjoying our coffee and cake, we headed directly to Chiang Khong where we met friends for lunch at Him Doi Restaurant.
Chiang Khong Immigration
This was my first time crossing the border, but the process was made easy because David had crossed many times.
(Note: Use this crossing guide if you wish to cross into Laos). The fees can vary, so play it by ear.
After around an hour of processing, we were finally on the Laos side, where we headed straight to our guesthouse (The Riverside) in Huay Xai, to stop for the night.
Arrived Huay Xai
In Huay Xai we checked into our accommodation. Then David showed me where to buy a Lao sim card, and then had an enjoyable quiet night by the riverside.
Sabaydee Restaurant
Initially we met up for a beer at Sabaydee Restaurant to watch the sun go down over the Mekong.
Mekong River Tours
Then we headed to meet K.Pheng, a friend of David’s, who runs Mekong River tours. We were kindly given a home cooked meal. A Laos dish of fish curry. Very delicious!
I stayed for about an hour, then left David to enjoy the company of his old friend whilst I headed back to my room to rest for the night.
End of day 1
Day 2. Huay Xai to Muang Sing
After an early breakfast we were on the bikes by around 9am and ready to head to Muang Sing. As we rode out of the city we noticed what seemed to be a big community clean up of the area. Interesting to see and a great idea.
Initially I had to keep reminding myself to ride on the right hand side of the road, but with David in front, I could at least keep track by following his lead.
The road was scenic but was surprised to see some intermittent significant grooves in the road, caused by heavy lorries. I had seen road grooves before, but not to this degree. Was a little surreal riding through this and felt like an optical illusion.
Don Chai School
At around 60km into the trip we stopped in at a small roadside store in Don Chai for a cold drink. Then, whilst sipping on our drinks we noticed a small school opposite. It seemed we had attracted a small crowd of children who were watching us. We exchanged waves and giggles erupted. I wondered if we might be able to go over, say hello, and get a photo with them. David suggested instead that we just ride right into the school!
I was a little apprehensive about riding straight into the school grounds without permission, but went with it, and was actually so glad I did. Turned out to be a fantastic idea with lots of really happy children greeting us!
We left a small donation for treats for the school children with the staff and waved our goodbyes.
The Route to Luang Namtha
Back on the road again we headed to Luang Namtha, where we would stop for lunch.
The route had some gravel road sections and several roadworks in progress, so we had to slow right down in many areas.
Petrol Stations in Laos
One thing I noticed in Laos, is that there is just two kinds of fuel; regular 91 octane and standard diesel. In Thailand there are a few different options.
I had a stupid moment when I first pulled up to a petrol station and asked for 91. The attendant looked confused. Thankfully David told me it is just the two kinds, so I just asked to fill my tank, instead.
Lunch in Luang Namtha
Arriving at Luang Namtha we stopped in at the Manychan Restaurant for lunch.
After lunch it was back on the bikes for the last 65km to Muang Sing. On this route the the road became steadily more broken up in sections. Beautiful scenery though and the Laos pace just felt more mellow in general.
Roadside Shop
Half way into the ride we had one quick stop in at a local roadside store for a cool drink and munched on some weird chemical pink snacks that made my teeth feel like they were going to drop out of my mouth.
We also met a little boy who kept a watchful eye on all we were eating, who tallied it up ongoing for his mum. Smart little boy.
At this stop I also had to ask to use the bathroom and the lady directed me to a toilet facility some distance behind the shop. This bathroom turned out to be a communal bathroom for all who resided in this area. I was grateful to be given the opportunity to use a bathroom, but lets just say it was a humbling experience.
Broken Up Route
On the last section of road to Muang Sing the roads were intermittently broken up with large gravel areas and large pot holes.
Traffic was generally slow paced, with a few big trucks bustling through steadily. Had a bit of a moment when at one blind corner a large truck traveling at a bit of speed careered through the curve. Was a little close for comfort.
Anyway, no dramas and after a photo op or two we eventually arrived in Muang Sing.
Arrived Muang Sing
When we arrived in Muang Sing, we initially had a drive around the town and I was taken aback by how broken up the roads were and how dusty everything was. David, who had been to Muang Sing on several occasions, told me later that he was sad to see the town so broken up. It had changed. It had been neglected.
After the ride we headed to our accommodation, which didn’t disappoint. Phou Iu II Bungalows. The bungalows were pretty. A little oasis of greenery in a town which was a sea of dust. David knew the owners, which helped to make it more personal too.
Phou Lu II Bungalows
Phou Lu II Bungalows were pretty.
A little oasis of greenery in a town which was a sea of dust. David knew the owners, which helped to make it more personal too.
After we checked in and cleaned up we then took a ride around the area again to see if we could find a nice venue with a view, to enjoy the sunset.
Muang Sing Town
All the local restaurant places around the rice fields we not yet open, but we were able to get a few good photos, instead.
After a while we headed back to the bungalows where we enjoyed a beer and dinner and a short walk around the town. Was an early night that night as we had a 6am start the next morning.
– End of day 2
Day 3. Boun That Xieng Teung Festival
At around 4:30am I was awake with the roosters, so I pretty much just pottered about in my room for a while. By 5:50am I was at the bungalow restaurant waiting for David to join, and by 6am we were on the bikes again and heading to Nam Kea Luang temple.
As we headed up the mountain it came as a bit of a surprise to both of us that the only way to the parking spot was via a pretty muddy path, especially as we were both on road tires.
None-the-less it wasn’t too bad and the view at the top was worth it. We found a decent parking spot and headed towards the temple.
The Temple Activities
It was a misty chilly morning, which made the scene before us look all the more surreal. Lots of merit making and a huge turn out of people, dressed beautifully.
The temple was a hive of activity. At one point, David met a monk who spoke in perfect English. It turned out that he knew several language. Seven, I think! Incredible!
There were lots of food stalls and simple fun activities dotted around the temple grounds, which appealed to all ages.
As it approached mid day we ate a simple meal at a local stall. As we were finishing up an Akha Hilltribe lady approached us asking if she could take our leftovers. She gathered up the remains of the chicken and sat near the side of the stall to pick at the remains with her young daughter. David and I decided we would just order another round of chicken and invite her over to join us.
When the chicken arrived I approached her and asked her to join our table. Initially she refused and I was worried I had bruised her pride. I gave her a big smile and gently insisted. She came over and although initially reserved, soon began to relax and smile when we chatted with her. She spotted some friends and so called them over to join also. Before we knew it we had a small group of local Akha ladies and their children all happily eating at our table.
David mentioned about videoing them eating, but as soon as i pressed the record button i regretted it and switched the camera off again. Some moments should be recorded in memory only.
The Dancers
A little later we made our way to where dancing performances were going to take place. In truth it turned out to be a bit of a let down. David had told me that in previous years there were many local Hilltribes people who would come to dance for the community.
This year, however, there seemed to be more focus on a lottery and lots of talking, with very little dancing and performances going on. You can check out how the event looked in 2012, when David had last visited the festival, here. (Quite different)
Some local Hmong girls did put on a great show though!
We hung around for a few more hours but by about 3pm we were weary from a long day so decided to call it quits.
We headed back down a precarious steep dirt track out of the temple and back to the bungalows.
Dinner at Phou Lu II Bungalows
When we arrived at the bungalows the initial plan was to share one bottle of beer together then meet up later to try find a place to see a sunset view over the rice paddies. However, that didn’t go to plan. Instead, we noticed a small party was taking place in the restaurant. The owner of the bungalows was celebrating her husband being home so she and friends were getting merry. She invited us to join them and insisted on feeding us (the hospitality we had enjoyed so far from local people was truly touching).
The food was delicious and the Beer Lao kept flowing.
Before I knew it we were all pretty merry and dancing away and having a ton of fun.
A little later, the owner decided we should head to a local club later, but by then it was only 6pm and I was pretty sure at the rate everyone was drinking that the clubbing wouldn’t happen. I was right. By around 8pm (and after David had introduced his Jameson Whisky into the mix), the party was wiped out!
Headed off to bed with a light head and a smile on my face.
– End of day 3
Day 4. Muang Sing to Luang Namtha
By some miracles of miracles I awoke early with the roosters again, feeling on top of the world. Not a hangover in sight. I wondered if i might still be under the effects of the beer, but no. For the rest of the day I was fine. I really think there must be less chemicals in Beer Laos to be able to wake up from a big night of drinking, hangover free. Quite amazing really. I messaged David around 8am and he was feeling fine too. So, we were good to go at about 9am.
We geared up, gave many thanks to the bungalow owners, and headed off for a short ride up to Panghai border crossing, the Laos/China border checkpoint.
The Old French Fort
Our first quick stop before Panghai was in Muang Sing itself. David took me to an old French fort, where some of the original wall and building still remains.
Route to the Chinese Border
Next we headed to the Chinese border getting some great photos along the way.
David had his good camera with him, so the shots turned out perfect!
It was great to also have some photos of myself out riding, something that I rarely have the chance to do, being a solo rider.
Panghai Border Crossing
At Panghai we took more photos, (and at one point got shouted at for taking our bikes too close to the China side!)
It was interesting seeing this quiet border crossing and wished that I could have continued riding into China, but it just wasn’t possible.
Boys Selling a Bamboo Rat…
On route to Luang Namtha we spotted some local children at the side of the road attempting to sell a bamboo rat for food. We did a U-turn to take a look.
Feeling sorry for the rat I decided to try buy the rats freedom, despite knowing they will likely just catch it again. I paid the boys and watched them let the rat go (which in the end didn’t even run away!).
I am sure they boys had a laugh at the silly gullible foreigner woman, but either way it is win-win in my mind. My sentimental side gave the rat a fighting chance and the boys got some easy cash. If they catch it again, then it is the rats fault. I did what I felt good doing.
Rural Shop
Next, as we were riding along, we spotted some cute children waving at us from a small roadside village. We decided to pull over at the local village shop and get a cool drink. The children were shy, but came over and joined us.
We ended up buying them some drinks and some soap and shampoo. It certainly puts things in perspective when children can be in awe at receiving a simple gift of soap. Humbling, to say the least.
Riding on I spotted another group of children, happily playing in the mud by the side of the road. Pulled over for a quick hello. They were adorable.
Arrived Luang Namtha
By lunchtime we were already in Luang Namtha, so after a quick bite to eat at the Marychan we checked in at the Dokchampa hotel. Had a quick cleaned up then headed back out on the bikes. Initially headed up to Samakkhixay Stupa.
Samakkhixay Stupa
At the stupa, we bumped into a local man who was visiting the temple with his three lovely children.
When the man and his children left, we took a few photos in the temple grounds,
Again, it was great to get so many fantastic photos from David.
I managed to get some great shots of David, also.
After visiting the stupa, we headed back down into the city to the local market. I bought some great looking mandarins and then headed back again to the hotel to rest up for a bit.
Dokchampa Hotel
That evening I decided to remain in the hotel and try back up all my SD card data. I had taken so much video by this point, that I had used up all my SD card memory. I wanted to try free up some memory for the ride back. David headed out again to Manycham and we planned to meet early in the morning for the morning market in town.
– End of day 4
Day 5. Luang Namtha to Chiang Khong
I had hoped to get an early nights rest but my brain just wouldn’t wind down. Ended up with a few hours sleep regrettably. However, I knew I would make up the lost sleep on my return. I met up with David at 6am and we headed to the market.
Luang Namtha Morning Market
The market was already in full swing and had some interesting and unusual items for sale, including pig dung and squirrel meat.
Not exactly my personal cup of tea, but interesting to see.
After the market we had coffee at Bamboo Lounge followed by breakfast at the Manycham.
We returned to the hotel and packed up, ready to head back to Thailand.
Ride to Huay Xai
Back on the bikes, we set off for Huay Xai. Was a short ride but with lots of stops for photos.
We stopped at a viewpoint area where there were several cows grazing. I almost had a heart stopping moment when they ran onto the road, in direct line of a truck.
Thankfully, all was ok!
On route we spotted a crushed truck, which was quite alarming to see.
I took a look inside and honestly, I think the driver would have been ok, as long as the person had their seatbelt on. The driver side was not crushed and there was nothing gruesome. I really hope that all was fine…
The roadside villages were pretty interesting. Simple homes on stilts with huge satellite dishes.
Some also had meat drying outside in the sun. I think it was Bamboo Rat. The same thing the boys tried to sell me earlier. Or, possibly squirrel. I am not sure.
The sun was out and the temperature warmed up. On seeing a beautiful stream I took the opportunity for a quick cool down. I do this often on rides, as my gear is mesh and dries out fast. A easy way to refresh when feeling hot and sleepy.
There was also a cute cow in the field that was very friendly.
At the store in Don Chai (across from the school that we entered a few days ago), we stopped in to say hello to the owner and buy another cool drink.
It was a Sunday, so the local school was closed, but a couple of children did stop by to say hello.
I also spotted a lady working driving a Lomyai sorting machine. Interesting looking vehicle.
Arriving at Huay Xai in good time, we went to the duty free shop in town, then headed to immigration to get back over onto Thai soil.
Crossing Back into Thailand
At the border, the process was much quicker coming back over as we just needed to hand over our paperwork and documents.
Hello Thailand!
All done and dusted we made our way to Tammila guesthouse/resort for an overnight stay. David choose the bigger room at 700 baht a night, whilst i was content with a 350 baht a night room.
As we were checking in David mentioned that he cant believe how smooth everything had gone. A truly trouble-free trip. We parted way and would meet a little later for dinner. Haha…famous last words!
However, within a short time of sorting out my stuff in the room I got a knock on the door. Turned out to be a stressed David. Apparently he couldn’t find any of his important documents (passport, insurance, bike registration etc, which were all together in a folder)! He suspected that he had left them on the table at immigration. So, he needed to head back in the hope to retrieve them. Thankfully he returned having successfully retrieved all the documents, which he found on the table. Lucky!
Around an hour later we met up and headed to Bamboo Mexican House for dinner.
Dinner at Bamboo Mexican House
The food at Bamboo Mexican House was great. We relaxed and chatted about the trip. It was a really pleasant evening.
After dinner I headed back to the guesthouse and David headed to the bar opposite the Bamboo Mexican House. Lack of sleep was catching up on me. I hit my pillow and was out like a light.
– End of day 5
Day 6. Chiang Khong to Chiang Mai
I woke bright and fresh by an early 5:30am. I was fully awake and feeling good, so decided I may as well pack up and head to Phu Chi Fa. David had planned to ride direct to Chiang Mai on the main 118 highway later in the morning, so i figured he wouldn’t mind if I messaged to say I’m heading the longer route home. I wanted to see if i could get a view over Laos from Phu Chi Fa mountain viewpoint. (Last time i went to Phu Chi Fa was during the rainy season, so all i got to see was mist. Although was still very beautiful).
Phu Chi Fa
I arrived at the peak of the mountain by around 9am and was greeted to a beautiful view of Laos, just as the mist was clearing.
Was interesting to be in one country, overlooking the the other country I was riding in, just the day before.
I enjoyed the view for a bit then walked back down the mountain and bought an instant coffee from one of the local ladies at the base of the mountain.
Next, I headed along the 1093 border road, enjoying the amazing views over Thailand.
Landslides
On the R1093, I noticed a few broken up road sections and landslides.
There was also a bridge over a large landslide section.
I stopped to take a look. Seems to be quite a chunk of road gone.
I got back on my bike and decided then to head direct to Phayao, where I would stop for lunch.
Lunch in Phayao
In Phayao I enjoyed a fresh fish and some sticky rice for lunch. The food there never disappoints!
After which I was back on the road for a non-stop ride back to Chiang Mai on the 118.
Arrived in (Gridlocked) Chiang Mai
I was making good time on the R118. That is, until i arrived in the outer city area of Chiang Mai, and into a FLOOD of traffic and jams. I wondered what on earth must have been going on, as it wasn’t yet peak hour traffic (was around 2:40pm). However, the traffic was worse than I had seen it at any peak hour.
Turned out that royalty was in town for University graduation awards, so there were lots of backed up traffic. Took me almost an hour to get home and by this point i was weary and my bike was not running so good (filter change needed and maybe more I recon). I ended up thumping someone’s car wing mirror by mistake and apologising. I figured if I didn’t get out of the traffic soon I may actually get myself into some accident. I really was riding that badly.
Anyway, I pulled into the parking spot of my apartment building by 3:35pm feeling a sense of achievement. Unloaded my gear and lugged it to my apartment. I was happy to be home, and back to my cat (who my neighbours kindly take care of when I am away), who seemed happy to have me back also.
All in all a great trip and one for the memory banks!
– End of ride.
Video Highlights
I hope you enjoyed this Laos trip report.
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