Loas Visa Ride – 10 Incredible Days. Northern Thailand & Laos
Laos | 10 Days | Hot Season | 2000 KM Loop
A 2000 km overland loop from Chiang Mai-Thailand into Northern Laos, through four Laos provinces. This ride turned out to be an adventure with a comedy of errors unfolding. My original plans had to be continually altered and in truth, I felt fried by the end of it!
My primary goal for this trip was to obtain a new Thai visa from the Thai Embassy in Laos, capital of Vientiane. It was a rather rushed and unplanned situation, due to some issues with my previous Thai visa which had to be cancelled.
Key Details
Northern Laos
Location
May
Month
10
Days
20k*
Baht
*approximate (in Baht)
Contents
The Complete Laos Motorcycle Crossing Guide 2026: Chiang Khong →…
Day 1: Chiang Mai to Luang Namtha – 507 KM
Borders & Potholes
I set off early on the R118 main highway to cover ground and beat the heat, taking the more scenic Phayao detour route to Chiang Khong, riding through a summer rainstorm on along the way. My aim was to get from A to B as swiftly as possible.
When I arrived in Chiang Khong, I stopped in at Rider Coffee in Chiang Khong for a morning coffee and a catch-up with my friend David Unkovich, of GT.Rider.
Chiang Khong / Huay Xai Immigration
The crossing at Chiang Khong Immigration went pretty smoothly. The officers were nice and helpful. It took around one hour to get through the whole process, including the Laos side, including the Laos visa. There are various booths to stop at for one check or another, plus multiple stamps needed and various fees to pay.
Even though it wasn’t yet midday, the temperature was already rising. So, these multiple small stops of getting to one station, and then the other, can start to feel hot and bothersome in truth, especially when being conscious of time. It’s the nature of the game though, and could always be much worse. Ultimately, It is a very quiet crossing, so I shouldn’t complain. I also knew the process, having taken this crossing twice before (crossing guide here)
Thankfully on the Laos side, there was no police extortion (there had been multiple reports of Laos police stopping riders at the border asking for a 1000 Baht (or more) fee (for not using a local guide). It is totally fabricated, (so stand your ground if it happens). I was prepared for a confrontation, however, the police just wished me good luck! I am not sure if this is because they have stopped doing this shakedown, or because they took pity on a lone female rider. Once everything was stamped and a Laos visa was in my passport, I set off.
Province #1: Luang Namtha
Laos Roads. The roads in Laos are notoriously sketchy in places. Potholes and loose gravel are a given. Sometimes landslides, also. Once the road disintegrates, repairs are a long time coming.
I knew what to expect as I had ridden this particular road before, but there was still a bump or two which caught me out (many sections of the road appear smooth, but then there is a sudden crater, almost like a giant cannonball had been dropped from the sky!). Some of these crater potholes almost propelled me off my bike.
Also, I recently had a windshield installed on my bike and a few times when meeting these potholes the resulting catapult had the peak of my adventure helmet colliding with it, giving me quite a jolt. I began to regret installing it.
By around 4:30 – 5pm, after many hours of riding, I arrived at my final destination. It gave me ample time to clean up, get a local data sim card, and have dinner.
Arrived: Luang Namtha
The 180,000 population of Luang Namtha is made up of 39 ethnic groups, (including the Tai Lue, Ankha, and Hmong), who have inhabited the region for centuries.
The region was once a part of the Lan Xang Kingdom, one of the most powerful kingdoms in Southeast Asia (covering parts of Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam), which was founded in the 14th century. During the late 19th century, Luang Namtha, much like the rest of Laos, fell under French colonial rule, and the French maintained control over Laos until the mid-20th century when Laos gained its independence in 1953.
These days Luang Namtha has become a popular destination for eco-tourism, known for its natural beauty, diverse ethnic cultures, and trekking opportunities.
Accommodation: Thoulasith Guesthouse
Free WiFi (although not a strong signal) · AirCon · Fridge · Free water · Off-street parking (but not undercover) · TV (did not work) · Within walking distance of the main hub.
AC + Fan
Comfort
Bad
WiFi
400
Baht
3/10
Rating
In truth, I wasn’t too impressed with the accommodation, despite it looking ok from the outside. Granted, I booked the cheapest accommodation they had on offer (and at 400 Baht I ought not to complain!), but the room was dark, dingy, dusty, and smelly (which the photos below don’t really show).
The water didn’t drain from the shower or sink and noise reverberated through the walls. Maybe the more expensive rooms are much better? I had pre-booked via Agoda, so I wasn’t able to make a change. It was just a place to rest my head in any case!
End of Day 1
The next morning when I checked the room for items I may have left, I found someone else medication. I do respect that it shouldn’t expect the Ritz of course. It is Laos, after all.
Day 2: Luang Namtha to Nong Khiaw – 230 KM
Pot of Gold at the End of the Rainbow.
Another early morning start for me. Given that the daily temperature was around 37 degrees Celsius ( 98.6 Fahrenheit) and the humidity making it feel like even more, it was important not to be riding in the midday heat too much.
Road conditions on this route were much the same as before, but with some maintenance going on, which was good to see.
I passed multiple large supply trucks and rode through multiple roadside villages.
Laos Roadside Villages
The roads in Laos are lined by multiple villages. These are very simple in style. Often just wooden huts on stilts or in some cases modest brick homes. Most of the villages share a communal bathroom and outside showering area.
Diet is simple, often supplemented with caught wildlife, such as rats. Residents view you with curiosity and children wave and smile as you go by.
Communal bathroom and shower area.
It is incredibly humbling when riding through these villages. Simply being born in a different country, and owning a certain passport can make a huge difference in how your life starts out.
Province #2: Oudomxay
Muang Xay, Oudomxay
Muang Xay is the bustling large capital of Oudomxay province. I made a quick stop in at Charrming Lao Coffee for a (really bad) coffee (sorry, complaining again! I don’t mean it as a complaint though, just as an observation!). I also ordered a croissant to see me through the rest of the ride and then headed off again.
Province #3: Luang Prabang Province
Arrived: Nong Khiaw
I arrived in Nong Khiaw around 2 pm and went looking for accommodation after a short ride around
Nong Khiaw History
Situated on the banks of the Nam Ou River, surrounded by towering limestone mountains, Nong Khiaw has a sleepy land-that-time-forgot feel, yet, has all the amenities any traveler would need for an enjoyable stay.
If you visit the historic Pathet Lao Caves, you will be offered a glimpse into the region’s turbulent past, for over 20,000 Lao people hid in these caves for a span of 9 years whilst bombs rained down around them. Hard to fathom, when you see how quiet and tranquil the town is these days.
However, behind the sleepy vibe, lies a poignant historical heritage, due to the town serving as a supply route during the Indochina War. Signs are dotted around, warning not to venture too far off established routes and trails, due to unexploded bombs (a sad aspect of Laos History. Look up, “The Secret War” for more info regarding this).
Scooters can be rented for exploring the region. Buses are also available to take you to and from other major towns in Laos (although, expect a bumpy ride!), or book a slow boat ride from Luang Prabang.
For motorcycle riders, there are stunning trails, with a popular one being the route to the Lao Loum ethnic village of Muang Ngoy.
Accommodation: Local Gem of a Guesthouse!
Finding this accommodation was a real stroke of luck. I did not pre-book any accommodation in Nong Khiaw, and the place I had originally spotted on Google Maps was fully booked. I rode down the town’s main road and stopped at a random entranceway to ask if accommodation was available. I was told yes. Lucky me!
Free WiFi (strong signal) · AirCon · Fridge · Free water · Off-street parking (but not undercover) · TV · Within walking distance of the main hub.
AC + Fan
Comfort
Strong
WiFi
400
Baht
8/10
Rating
It honestly looked like NOTHING from the outside and I was expecting it to just be a place to rest my head for one day and night. I did not expect it to have great secure parking and open out into a place by the riverfront. (The only negative was that construction work was going on behind the riverfront building. However, it wasn’t overly noisy). When I checked the room I was stoked at how stunning the view was.
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