A trip to Hanoi to apply for a new Non ‘O’ Thai Visa. Having never visited Hanoi I decided to spend a weekend in the city before applying for my visa the following Monday morning.

For detailed info on the Thai Embassy in Hanoi, go to the bottom of the trip report.

Hanoi Trip

Day 1: Chiang Mai to Hanoi

On the 8th of June 2019, I took a direct flight to Hanoi from Chiang Mai City on an Air Asia flight. The start of my trip boded well, when I realised I had a whole row of seats to myself on the flight.

Noi Ba Airport to City Centre

When I arrived at Noi Ba airport the first thing I did was exchange Baht to Dong at one of the currency exchange booths, and then I bought a data SIM card. The airport most likely charges a higher commission and less attractive SIM card options, but I wanted a fuss-free start to my trip.

Normally, when visiting a new place I take a taxi directly to my accommodation to make things go smoothly, but as I had plenty of time, money and a SIM card, I decided to take the bus. I thought the slow drive to my destination would give me a chance to soak up more of the Vietnamese style of doing things.

86 Express Bus

I took the number 86 express which goes to the city center. It was super clean and even had WIFI on board. To find this bus stop, walk out of the airport, turn left, and then cross over the other side of the road. The bus stop is easy to spot and at just 30k Dong to the Old Quarter. DETAILED INFO ON THE BUS HERE

The bus dropped me off within walking distance of my hotel/guesthouse and I enjoyed the walk to get there.

Hanoi Lucky Hotel

I stayed at the Hanoi Lucky Hotel, which was a great price and within walking distance of popular tourist attractions.

When I first arrived at my hotel I was initially informed that there was no booking under my name, despite having booked and paid in advance via Agoda. Thankfully the issue was resolved and I was given a key. My room was on the top floor of a tall steep building with lots of steps. I was glad to have packed light.

I liked my room, but there was this rather unusual addition…

Hanoi Old Quarter

After a shower and change of clothes, I headed out into the Old Quarter, which is the main tourist hub of the city. My first stop was just around the corner.

St Josephs Cathedral

The stunning St Josephs Cathedral is famous due to being modelled on Notre Dame. Built in 1886, it is the oldest church in Vietnam and is steeped in history, (although not all of it is good: Wikipedia link.)

The Cathedral is a great people-watching spot at all times of the day and is popular with locals and tourists alike. Nice terraced restaurants and coffee shops surround the area, offering a birds-eye view of the activities below.

Hoàn Kiếm Lake

Next stop was a walk to (and around) Hoàn Kiếm Lake.

The road area around the lake gets closed off from traffic during the weekend, so it was a pleasant experience to walk around this zone. Lots of people were out enjoying the lakeside area.

I stopped in at Thủy Tạ Café for dinner and a drink to watch the sunset over the lake. The view was nice, but my food was not so great.

After dinner, I walked around and enjoyed the sights, albeit being a bit noisy for me. Then, I headed to bed early.

Day 2. Exploring Hanoi

I woke up refreshed after a good night’s sleep only to have the sudden horror realisation that I had exchanged too many dollars into Dong, leaving me with insufficient money to cover my visa fee the next morning! Additionally, it was a Sunday, so the banks were closed. My first stop was an ATM, where I hoped to withdraw money in dollars. However, it turned out it would only give Dong. So, my next step was to search online for an independent backstreet money exchange.

Conifer Four Seasons Book Café

But coffee first! I stopped at Conifer Four Seasons Book Café, on Hoàn Kiếm Lake lake.

This area is popular with families and it seems many bring their children here for the opportunity to practice English with foreign visitors. In truth, I wanted to sit quietly with a coffee and people-watch, but the children were lovely and I didn’t begrudge talking with them in the least, but it became a conveyor belt of children wishing to talk, and I couldn’t say no. I had language exchanges with four different children that morning.

The next stop was a Backstreet Money Exchange Bureau.

Backstreet Exchange Bureau

Given my dumb realisation of having exchanged all my Baht into Dong and with it being a Sunday (and all banks closed), I needed to source a Backstreet Exchange Bureau. Luck was on my side because I found one and it made for an interesting experience.

Once my money was sorted out I took a Grab Taxi Bike ride to Train Street, which was on my must-see list.

Hanoi Traffic: Grab Taxi

I was quite excited to visit Train Street. Many years ago I watched a program that showed Train Street, so I was anticipating a fun experience. I wanted to get there early, so took a Grab Taxi through the streets of Hanoi.

Train Street

When I got to Train Street it looked great. It was like something out of a movie set. There were lots of cool little coffee shops lining both sides of the track. (I confess not being a fan of the food, though).

The train coming through was fantastic!

The train times:

I next took a Grab Taxi Bike back to the main Old Quarter hub and found a small café serving Egg Coffee, which was another of my “musts” for Vietnam.

Vietnamese Coffee

Vietnam is famous for its coffee, one of which is the incredible egg coffee (cà phê trứng), which was created in Hanoi in the 1940s by Nguyễn Văn Giảng, a bartender at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel. During that time milk was scarce, so he substituted whisked egg yolks for cream, combining them with sugar and robusta coffee to create a rich, frothy beverage. The drink became popular for its unique flavour and creamy texture, and his family later opened Café Giảng, where the recipe is still cherished. Today, egg coffee is a signature Vietnamese speciality, enjoyed both locally and internationally.

During my visit, I tried Egg Coffee, Coconut Coffee, and Traditional Vietnamese Coffee.
I compiled a video of all three variations:

I walked around the Old Quarter for a bit, then headed back to my hotel for a siesta in preparation for an evening stroll. Hanoi was baking hot, so with all the walking I was beat!

Amazing Food: Ưu Đàm Chay

In the evening I walked to Ưu Đàm Chay, a famous vegetarian restaurant in Hanoi. Having not enjoyed the food much so far, I figured I would give this famous place a shot. There were many great reviews about it. It did not disappoint, although the dishes were more Thai-inspired than Vietnamese. I ordered Pumpkin Soup and seasoned Stuffed Tofu, with a Salty Lemonade.

The pumpkin soup was a work of art and delicious, as was the salty lemonade.
The tofu though, had that very vinegary flavour that preserved tofu can sometimes get. ..so that one was a bit of a thumbs down.

After dinner, I navigated the city streets as a pedestrian, which isn’t very easy!

Pedestrian Hazards!

The traffic in Hanoi does not move fast, but it is noisy and chaotic. Navigating the streets in the chaos isn’t easy there!

Walking Street

I walked around the lake area, enjoying sights and sounds, including some foreigners busking.

I enjoyed the Walking Street for a while then headed back to the guesthouse for an early night.

Day 3

Thai Embassy

An early rise for me as I planned to arrive at the Thai Embassy as soon as it opened (at 8:30 am), and I planned to walk there. The Monday morning traffic was hectic, extremely noisy, and felt quite dangerous at times. Initially, I thought that when the green man came on for pedestrians that there would be no traffic coming through at that time, but vehicles still came around from the left.

Given the copious amount of traffic in the city, and at this busy time, it felt precarious crossing the road. In truth,h I have never encountered a more inconsiderate driving culture before. They see you, but don’t stop. This is not just my own unfamiliarity with the system, this is plain and simple obnoxious driving/riding. The horn usage is also insane and unnecessary. I was also honked at for merely standing on the roadside. In truth it irritated the hell out of me and my ears were ringing from the constant OBNOXIOUS honking.

Sadly, the crazy traffic meant this happened:

These are tyre marks on my foot. The car saw me crossing the road but did not stop until the very last minute, bashing my hip slightly and catching my foot with the tyre. Thankfully my foot was not run over completely, and only the top soft tissue was bruised. Was a very scary moment though!

Highland Coffee

I arrived early at the consulate and so had a quick coffee at Highland Coffee. I liked the name (given my Scottish background), but the coffee wasn’t good (I am such a coffee snob). It was also very noisy inside, but I guess that is just city life.

Once it became almost time for the embassy to open I crossed the road and waited at the gates. Luckily, there were very few people applying for visas that day. Inside, the reception was brusk and a tad intimidating. We were given numbers and instructed to sit and wait. I nervously waited for my number to be called. After a while my number was called and I approached the window and an unsmiling immigration officer checked through my paperwork carefully. Thankfully all seemed to be in order and I was instructed to return the next day. I left the building hoping I would have a Thai visa the next day when I return to pick up my passport.

I walked back through the busy streets, stopped for a Coconut Coffee, then headed back to the lake to visit Đền Ngọc Sơn temple

Đền Ngọc Sơn Temple

Entry fee: 30,000 dong.

Đền Ngọc Sơn , or the Temple of the Jade Mountain, is a historic and cultural site located on a small island in Hoàn Kiếm Lake, Hanoi. Built in the 19th century, the temple is dedicated to Confucian and Taoist deities as well as General Trần Hưng Đạo, a revered military leader. The iconic red-painted Huc Bridge connects the temple to the shore, symbolizing harmony and balance.

As a symbol of Hanoi’s spiritual and historical heritage, Đền Ngọc Sơn attracts visitors seeking to admire its architecture, pay respects, or enjoy the tranquil lake surroundings.

After enjoying the tranquillity of the temple for quite a long time, (including spending time with a local cat there), I decided I would visit the Temple of Literature next. Being a book-lover, I was really enjoying the literature theme all around Hanoi.

Văn Miếu- Quốc Tử Giám –
The Temple of Literature

Văn Miếu – Quốc Tử Giám, often referred to as the Temple of Literature, is a historic and cultural landmark in Hanoi, built in 1070 under Emperor Lý Thánh Tông. Originally dedicated to Confucius and his teachings, it became Vietnam’s first university in 1076, Quốc Tử Giám, serving as an elite educational institution for training scholars and mandarins through rigorous Confucian examinations. The complex features traditional Vietnamese architecture, including courtyards, pavilions, and steles of honour that commemorate outstanding students. As a symbol of Vietnam’s dedication to education and Confucian values, it remains a cherished site for both locals and tourists.

Hanoi’s strong association with literature stems from its historical role as Vietnam’s cultural and intellectual hub. During the Lý and Trần dynasties (11th-14th centuries), Hanoi was the imperial capital, fostering scholarship, Confucianism, and traditional arts. Notably, the Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu), established in 1070, was Vietnam’s first university, dedicated to Confucius and serving as a centre for education and civil service exams. Over centuries, the city’s literary legacy was enriched through poetry, historical texts, and a vibrant oral tradition. Today, Hanoi’s monuments, streets, and festivals reflect this deep-rooted appreciation for literature and intellectual pursuits.

I enjoyed the temple, although not in the same goose-bumpy way that Cambodian history gives me. It was a little busy despite being an off-peak time. Worth the visit though.

I was a little saddened to see this disrespectful moment though. A beer can was dumped in the Bonsai tree. There were even bins close by. Madness.

By the time I had viewed all of the temple and also a small place next to it I was very hot and tired. I got myself a Grab Bike ride and headed back to the hotel to rest up. My legs were throbbing from all the walking too and my foot was feeling a little achy from being almost run over. That night I just chilled out and relaxed. I slept early.

Day 4: More City Exploring

Secret Cafe’

After waking up quite late I headed to a small hidden cafe for (reportedly), the best traditional coffee in Hanoi. I liked the little doorway and the small path to get to it. Made it feel like a wonderful secret treasure.

When I entered the cafe, there was a local TV film crew interviewing the owner so I decided to sit outside and watch the view, rather than disturb the crew inside. The view outside was perfect. It gave a great people-watching spot and a view of the cathedral.

Monster Food Portions!

After coffee, I wandered around the Old Quarter for a while and then stopped at a local place for lunch. The portions were mammoth-sized!

At this restaurant, there was a minor altercation of some kind, which resulted in the owner shouting. At first, I had my earphones in, listening to relaxing music, so I didn’t notice until after the couple in front of me got up fast, looking a bit spooked out. I think it might have been a disagreement with a family member, but unsure. The owner was lovely, so I think it was just a mini domestic of some sort. It was a good meal and at great prices.

After lunch, I took a Grab Bike to the Vietnam Military History Museum. This turned out to be the highlight of my trip (along with my visit to Train Street). See for yourself just how spectacular the display is.

Vietnam Military History Museum

The Vietnam Military History Museum was established in 1956 and is one of Vietnam’s oldest museums. It showcases the country’s long history of warfare, highlighting struggles for independence and national defence from ancient times to the modern era.

The museum’s exhibits include artefacts, photographs, and weapons, such as the iconic MiG-21 fighter jet and tanks from the Vietnam War. Its centrepiece is the Flag Tower of Hanoi, a symbol of resilience and patriotism.

A spectacular museum but of course, deeply saddening also.

War is always a sad event, no matter who the victor is. As I walked around my skin prickled thinking about the history. So many lives and families were affected. Terrible really. As an aside, In my own family, my grandfather was killed in WWII, leaving behind my grandmother who was pregnant with my father at the time. My grandmother already had one young daughter to care for, so was now left to cope on her own during very tough times. I cannot imagine how she coped, or how different history would have been if not for the war.

After drinking in the history at the museum I took a Grab Taxi to collect my visa from the Thai Embassy. Thankfully there were no issues and I picked up my passport feeling relieved.

After more wandering about (will post a few photos at the end of the write up), I rested up in my room again. The weather was relentlessly hot and I walked a lot during my trip. Plus there was the incessant city noise. I had to take some rest stops to recharge my internal battery. When the sun was beginning to set I headed out to Hoàn Kiếm Lake. My plan was to film the famous five-way intersection from Legend Beer restaurant. It was mesmerizing to watch!

Five-Way Intersection

Hanoi’s famous 5-way intersection is a vibrant and chaotic hub that epitomises the city’s bustling street life. The intersection is surrounded by historic buildings, cafes, and shops, and it is a popular spot for tourists and locals. Motorbikes, cars, bicycles, and pedestrians navigate the seemingly unregulated flow, showcasing the organised chaos that defines Hanoi traffic. It is also a gateway to exploring the Old Quarter’s narrow streets, making it a lively symbol of Hanoi’s energy and charm.

Once I had my fill of traffic chaos I walked to St.Joseph’s Cathedral area to enjoy a quieter dinner. I had previously spotted a nice-looking place whilst drinking coffee at the Hanoi Cafe’ and figured it would be a good spot for watching the people around the Cathedral. It was a quieter respite from the noisy Legends Beer spot.

Cathedral Courtyard at Night

At night, the cathedral is illuminated by soft lights that highlight its intricate façade, tall spires, and large stained-glass windows. People walk around, enjoying the peaceful ambience whilst capturing the mood on camera. I was pleased to have found a great spot at Nhà hàng La Place Restaurant to watch people come and go.

I went to bed happy that I had a small taste of Hanoi and that my visa was good to go. The next day I would be flying back to Thailand.

Day 5: Return Chiang Mai

Lazy Lie-in

I enjoyed a lazy morning lie-in before checking out earlier than I needed to. I only had a very small bag with me, so I decided I would just make my way slowly around the city and then get the bus to the airport. It was a nice walk, but very hot. I took a few more photos before getting on the bus. (see photo album at the end of the trip report)

At the airport, I ate lunch at Hai Cang restaurant and had another Vietnamese coffee. I am sorry to say but I have to give a huge thumbs down on this restaurant’s coffee and food. The food was not good, the service was not much better, and the coffee was so sweet that it was undrinkable.

I checked in and then treated myself to a small bottle of great perfume. I suppose that is one of the benefits of flying. Duty-free prices!

The flight was just a short 1.5 hours from Hanoi to Chiang Mai, and I was greeted with a rainbow just before landing back in Chiang Mai.

I had parked my bike in the airport car park, which started up with no issues. As I rode back to my home I was profoundly aware of the lack of noisy horns being tooted, and very grateful for it. It made the ride home feel like someone had switched off the city sounds. It was a rather Zen-like experience. It makes me wonder what Vietnamese people think when they come to Thailand.

I was happy to be back in Chiang Mai and happy to be reunited with this little furry angel.

I hope you enjoyed this Hanoi Trip Report.

Thai Embassy Information

Opening Hours

Visa application hours: 
Monday – Friday
09.00 – 12.00 hrs
(Observe local holidays and Thai holidays)

Visa Application

Visa applications should be made in the morning between 9 am and 12 lunchtime. The Embassy opens at 8:30 am, however, so you can fill out your application and wait to be seen from this time onwards.

Visa Collection

Collection time
You will be given an appointment for when you should collect your visa. The time I was given was 4 pm. You cannot collect earlier than the appointment time. So, it is best to book a late flight out (if flying out the same day), or book for the next day.

Cost

Cost of visa varies depending on type of visa, but the currency accepted is USD. Make sure that you have dollars to pay for your visa.

Additional Info

The manner in Vietnam is more curt, so expect the officers to be a bit sharp. I additionally provided a bank statement along with my non-immigrant visa application, because I heard this may occasionally be requested. I think it is a good idea to print it out just in case asked. Note that some countries can enter Vietnam and obtain a free Visa on Arrival, however, other countries (such as the USA) will need to apply in advance. The full list of countries/info is HERE

Photo Album

Photo Highlights – A selection of photos from my trip (click to view full size)

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